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The original was posted on /r/sffpc by /u/Ranger_Trivette on 2025-03-05 12:04:56+00:00.
Hi all :)
The goal of this project was to create a small form factor (SFF) PC capable of displaying streaming content (TV series and films) from a browser on my main TV.
It's not intended for retro gaming or PS emulation, nor as a home server.
Maybe you can adjust the project to fit your needs!
Parts List
- Motherboard: GIGABYTE H610I (€114)
- CPU: Intel Core i3-12100 (€116)
- GPU: None
- PSU: HDPLEX 250W (€145)
- RAM: Lexar UDIMM DDR4 8GB 3200 MHz (€16)
- CPU Cooler: METALFISH Z22 (€28)
- 90° HDMI Cable (€8)
- 2x 90° USB Cables (€9)
- Case: An old PS1 (€25)
- Total: €461
Tools Needed
I used basic tools: pliers, a cutter, and a drill.
By the time I realized a Dremel would have made things easier, it was too late.
You can definitely achieve a cleaner internal finish.
You'll also need cyanoacrylate glue.
Some parts of the PS1 are made of ABS, while moving parts are made of a self-lubricating polymer (you can recognize it by its strong glass fiber content).
If you need to glue them, degrease and sand the surface first—otherwise, the glue won't adhere properly.
Step 1
The first issue is the motherboard orientation.
I ran several tests in a 3D modeling program.
In my opinion, the only viable option is to position the motherboard traditionally, with cables on the left and RAM on the right.
The second option (which I won’t go into detail about, but has already been covered by u/AdWorking2848 in this post) is another possibility.
I started removing everything unnecessary.
You also need to remove the bottom of the CD reader.
You should end up with something like this:
Step 2
We need to lower every protrusion at the bottom of the case to bring everything to the same level.
Unfortunately, they're all at different heights, which makes the motherboard touch in some areas.
You'll need a caliper to measure the distance from the bottom and a file.
Now, it's time to drill the 4 M4 threaded holes that will secure the motherboard to the bottom.
Step 3
Here problems started to show up.
The RAM touches the "opening bottom."
Here the 3D drawing saved me.
Apparently, removing the screw on the right allows you to mount one RAM stick while still keeping a screw to hold the opening system in place.
And it works! :)
Also, part of the bottom housing and the bottom itself need to be removed.
Step 4
Now that the RAM fits perfectly, it's time to address the gear wheel that regulates the opening and the cover that interferes with a capacitor (I won't show the photo because we’ll have to remove it later due to the CPU cooler).
There are also issues with the audio jack connectors.
I simply removed part of the cover.
If I could go back, I’d probably just remove the audio jack connectors entirely by desoldering them from the motherboard.
They're unnecessary, and it would make for a cleaner job.
A part of the back cover also needs to be removed. It interferes with the motherboard and the 4-pin power connector.
Step 5
The joystick connectors need to be slimmed down.
Behind them, the 24-pin cable will pass, so you’ll need a lot of space.
I wanted to keep the memory card slot covers at all costs, but the only option is to glue them.
Step 6
CPU cooler.
It’s a cooler for LGA115X. I modified the brackets to fit the LGA1700 holes.
The problem is with the orientation.
The ideal position would be left or right to try to create airflow.
The problem is that one side heats up the RAM, and the other side heats up the PSU.
Towards the back, there's worse airflow, but at least you don't cook anything.
Later, I’ll find out that I need to cut an angle that interferes with the pin around which the cover rotates.
The closing gear wheel must be completely removed.
It's not the gear itself that’s problematic, but the small black wheel that causes friction.
Without that black wheel, the other part serves no purpose.
Same as you did for the opening lid system, you need to remove part of the mechanism that allows the lid to rotate. The right side is easy, while the left side needs to be glued since you had to remove the screw.
Step 7
Now it's time for the PSU.
Everything went smoothly here. In 3D, the HDPLEX250 seemed perfect for the task, and it turned out to be!
Compared to the photo below, I only removed the vertical plastic part. I needed to gain a few millimeters on the right.
Step 8
Finally, the PS1 closes itself.
This is when I knew I would make it.
The big challenge left was cable management, but somehow I knew it was doable.
Step 9
Cable management.
Okay, here’s where a big issue arose. The 24-pin connector doesn’t fit at all, nor does the 4-pin one.
You need to remove each pin, cut the cable, and shorten it to the proper length.
Then, apply heat shrink tubing over the exposed parts of the cable to prevent them from staying uncovered.
The cables also need to be bent to limit the space they occupy.
Step 10
Power button and LED.
The original one was too big and positioned exactly where the 24-pin connector is.
The only option was to use the restart button.
I bought a small, flat-bottom switch, cut the plastic cap to the correct height, glued the cap onto the switch, and the switch to the case.
The power LED was really easy.
Both can be easily connected to the F_Panel. Just remember to leave a little bit of extra length.
Conclusion:
Overall, the project is quite easy to replicate.
No special tools or incredible skills are needed.
Note that there is no way to keep the screws that hold the upper cover in position.
If I were to replicate it, I would unsolder all the unnecessary connectors to get a cleaner result.
Thanks to @David Gutierrez for sharing a detailed 3d drawing of the PS1
Thanks to u/AdWorking2848, I was stuck on a cooler that was too thick.
Your post literally enlightened me! :)
