tomkatt

joined 1 year ago
[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 1 points 9 hours ago

Not a specific song, but a band: Hail the Sun

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 4 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago)

You can use ntfsfix on the drive to do a check and remove dirty bit. This isn’t a full check though, and could mask or hide actual issues with the drive if it’s failing.

There’s also chkntfs which is more robust but I’m not sure if that’s open source and I’m not familiar with it.

Using ntfsfix is a good quick fix in my experience, but at the end of the day, NTFS is a Microsoft exclusive format and shared disks should be mounted in a format that both OSes can use, like exFAT, or Btrfs with the WinBtrfs driver (the latter I’m not familiar with, I’ve always used exFAT for shared disks, but I don’t use Windows anymore).

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 5 points 1 week ago

The other person said to never connect to wifi, but I'd say either put it on an isolated wifi (guest network) and lock it down to LAN-only access in your router, if at all possible.

The reason being that these devices are aggressive about getting a wifi signal, and even if they can't connect to yours, they'll apparently search for unprotected wifi networks and connect to those to send data and phone home. Locking it down to LAN only prevents this, and isolating to a guest network means no information about other devices on your network.

It's utterly insane we have to do this stuff. If you're willing to spend more, there are commercial signage displays you can buy that are essentially dumb TVs, and that is pretty much the only way to get a dumb TV today (and obviously, don't expect smart features from it).

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 8 points 1 week ago

McLarens are awesome cars, don't let this guy ruin that. Besides, did you see that paint job? He just put the car out of its misery.

Glad the cameraman was okay; this guy shouldn't be behind the wheel of anything.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 8 points 1 week ago

I've ditched all of them except the Disney/Hulu bundle, and that's only because Amex gives me back $7 a month of the cost.

Amazon Prime used to be okay as a Prime customer, but now you can't watch a 24 minute show without seeing like five ads. I tried to watch an episode of Invincible and there were two ads before the show even started, two in the middle of the show, and one at the end. It's freaking insane.

I barely even watch video these days, I get way more mileage out of a good music service like Qobuz or Tidal.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

It depends. I’m not saying I never pirate books. I’m not going to just support a publisher milking a book that should belong to the commons.

Also, some publishers have taken to raising ebook prices to as high or higher than hardback costs. For those I might buy one book by an author and pirate another. I won’t justify it other than to say I only ever bought paperbacks anyway and still remember those being like $3.99 to $6.99, so I’m not paying $18+ for an ebook novel because of publisher greed.

But if it’s an author I like, I buy their books, and support them in other ways (like with Sanderson’s Kickstarter for example).

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 32 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

Nah, no need to be a shitheel. I'm cool with paying for books, authors gotta eat. I wouldn't refund a book I've read.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

MOBI has been deprecated for a long time. Standard formats now are AZW3 (KF8) and KFX. They're a bit more advanced than MOBI, and thank goodness, since it was a terrible format. AZW3 is essentially a MOBI/EPUB container, and I believe KFX is equivalent to EPUB2, possibly with some EPUB3 features.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 5 points 2 weeks ago

Takes a small effort to set up (install Calibre, install NoDRM plugin, apply Kindle serial to plugin), but once it's done, the rest is literally drag and drop, it removes DRM from your books automagically.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 42 points 2 weeks ago (7 children)

Like hell I don't. Calibre plus NoDRM says otherwise.

[–] tomkatt@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Okay. I live in a town with a population barely over 2000 people, the paved road ends at my house and continues on as dirt roads, I'm surrounded by miles of empty lots of wild growth with a few houses interspersed here and there, and I have one direct neighbor across the street with the next two closest neighbors being a quarter mile up the road.

I guess I don't understand your definition of rural then. Or you don't understand just how far wifi signals can travel when there are no obstructions, or that people can have multiple network SSIDs in their home (hell, I have three, one for 2.4 GHz, one for 5 GHz, and then a separate 5 GHz for a work network). Rural doesn't mean tech illiterate.


Edit - and to be clear, most of the signals I see are probably too weak to be usable due to attenuation, but I can pick them up all the same via Wifi Analyzer. How many networks I see is dependent on the device used. Currently my mini-PC only sees my networks, then a Roku somewhere (probably neighbors across the street) and another single network at low strength, but it varies.

I used to easily see dozens or more networks in the city if sniffing for them. Your PC's wifi won't list all of them, just the strongest signals and there will still be many because city life is saturated that way.

 

The current build of Jelos updated the libSDL from v2600.5 to 2800.1 and it broke a few ports. In particular the ones I know of are Panzer Paladin and TMNT: Shredder's Revenge. Both are fixed with the instructions below.

I saw in some threads people asking about it so here's the fix:


You'll need a copy of the 7/26 JELOS build or before from the github releases page and copy out the libSDL files from /usr/lib. To do this, you'll need to download the tar archive, then use something like 7zip to extract the SYSTEM file to a folder.

Copy off all the the libSDL2 related files that have a file size (ignore the ones that list as 0kb in size, those are symlinks). All told there are something like six files you need, the 2.0.so.02600.5 file, the ttf file, the image file, gfx file, and mixer.

You need to rename the filesaccording to the SDL2-CD.dll.config set in the game folder at /storage/roms/ports//dlls/

If you prefer, I already have all the correct files and renamed as needed. You can download them in zipped format here.


Once you have the correct files, correctly named, copy them into /storage/roms/ports//libs/

Lastly, edit the game's .sh file in /storage/roms/ports/ to add the following lines:

# # # export path for local libSDL
export LD_PRELOAD=$gamedir/libs/libSDL2.so.0

Add that to the script on its own line. I put it at line 29, after the "Loading... Please Wait." echo output line. Anywhere after the get_controls line should be fine.

If you mess up the file, or run into problems, the full file should look like this one.

From there, save it and run the game. And that should be it.

If you gather the files yourself instead of using the ones from the ZIP I linked and the game loads sideways (in portrait), get the libSDL2-2.0.so.0.2600.5 from the SYSTEM folder in the /usr/lib/SDL2-rotated path instead of /usr/lib, and copy it to your game's lib directory on the handheld, and rename it to libSDL2-2.0.so.0 to fix.

 

I noticed that darker games on my x55 didn’t look good, like dark tones and blacks were almost inverted looking at stock settings. After a bit of tweaking, setting gamma from default (50%) to 67% got everything looking good.

After checking out a few YouTube videos it seems the gamma level on the display varies between units. I’ve seen it look good on default in some and even up to 100% on one video. Play with the setting and dial it in to what looks best for you.

If it helps I’m currently using:

  • brightness 68%
  • gamma 67%
  • contrast 52%
  • saturation 60%
 

I’ve got a Powkiddy X55 and I’m really enjoying it, but for some games I find even its 5.5” screen to be fairly small for the task, particularly when looking at games from the 32-bit era and up.

How on earth are people actually managing to play these games on 3.5” and 2.8” displays? I feel like it would be really cramped for screen real estate or you’d basically be holding the device in front of your nose just to play it.

 

Fanatical has some awesome game bundles. The other night I picked up a bundle of 5 games for like $7 and Doom Eternal for around $8.

They're neat because their bundles usually have many games and the discount allows to to select 2, 3, 5, etc. out of the bundle at the discounted priced at your choice.

Thought I'd mention it since many people are aware of Steam sales and Humble Bundle bundles but I don't see much talk about Fanatical.

 

I recently bought the Powkiddy X55 and reviewed it on reddit here. Now that I've had it a for a month how is it? Great!

Some of this will be a retread of my original review, but I wanted to post an update with some new detail since the firmware has improved greatly since release, and some things have changed/improved over time.

TL;DR at the bottom.


Build quality and feel

# Screen

The display is a 5.5" IPS with good viewing angles. It's a quality display, good vibrant color, and you have the ability to adjust contrast, brightness, gamma, and hue in the system settings.

Vertical viewing angles aren't as good as horizontal, but it's pretty decent. It also gets very bright, unlike the prerelease models you may have seen on youtube. Extremely bright, in fact. I'm generally only using it at 60% brightness.

The screen is flush with the frame and there's zero light bleed, which is nice.

Despite being 16:9, it makes for a fairly large screen for any platform, even 4:3 or 1:1 stuff. It's great, and there's nothing else near this size for the price.

# Shell

The X55 feels pretty lightweight. I don't expect it to hold up to any high drops. It is firm though, no flex or creaking. I disassembled it fairly easily, and the shell clips are strong enough to hold it together without screws. The 8 screws probably help to keep it sturdy and prevent any flexing.

# Buttons and sticks

First, the good. I love the feel of the face buttons and d-pad. They work well, don't stick at all, and are not dissimilar to the 2DS XL in feel. The d-pad is soft on touch, not clicky, and same for the buttons.

The dpad is a bit larger than what I'd consider "normal" and the size makes it a bit difficult for rolling motions for fighting games. I can do something like a hadouken (back-down-foward), but trying to do a dragon punch doesn't always work unless I do the motion a bit slowly. There are also some false diagonals on up and down. After several weeks of use, the d-pad is breaking in nicely though, doesn't feel as stiff as when I bought it. It's getting easier to do fighting games motions and for general use it's fine.

One complaint with the face buttons: height. They sit high and have long travel. Feels like they should have been a bit shorter for comfort and responsiveness. Also, the distance between the face buttons feels too wide, but that probably has to do with the height, since they have flat sides instead of being largely rounded.

The top (R/L) buttons are pretty good. R1/L1 are a bit narrow, but easy to reach. I do feel like they sit a bit high which can make switching between L/R1 and L/R2 more awkward than it needs to be, but overall they're good otherwise. The top buttons are clicky sounding, but I don't mind that, YMMV. This isn't a powerful enough handheld for platforms that use analog triggers, so I'm not bothered by the lack of analog press.

Many reviews noted that the R and L buttons are very loud. It's true but they do seem to have gotten quieter with use over time; I guess as they break in.

Start/select and volume buttons are clicky and loud, that's unchanged from when it was brand new. They're solid feeling, and flush with the unit. I don't mind the button style but some won't like this. Placement of start and select is a bit awkward. I don't hate it, but it's far from ideal. Also, volume up is on the left, and volume down on the right. Small thing, but it's the reverse of what you'd expect.

The sticks are decent. I'm not a fan of these short, Switch style sticks, but they feel good, are comfortable to use, and have a solid click for L3/R3 press. They're recessed and in motion they feel like they have a bit of 8-way gating. Full range of motion, but they do seem to be a bit sensitive given the short travel distance on them. I've had no issues with games that use the analog like for Dreamcast or N64.

# Audio

We have stereo speakers (maybe a first for Powkiddy?) and they sound great. This thing gets very loud without distortion. I like it, and at 100% volume I think I could hear it from the other end of my house and through multiple rooms.

# Ergonomics

The X55 is ergonomic, with a slight curve at the back sides where you'd expect on a gamepad. It's subdued to reduce thickness, but enough to lend grip and make it comfortable to rest your fingers behind. It's well balanced, and holding it by either side feels the same, the weight is centered well.

Despite being ergonomic overall, it's not perfect. The d-pad is below the left stick, leaving your hands offset for most games you'd play on this unless you're comfortable using the stick instead. I wish the d-pad was on top. Small complaint, but with the d-pad low on the unit I notice my pinky can hang off the frame. Primary stick was an odd choice for this since it'll mostly be playing d-pad based games.

I've noticed over time with using it I've adjusted my grip to compensate, and it's stillcomfortable over longer sessions.


Performance

If you're familiar with the RG353M/P, you'll know what to expect here. This runs on the same chip (RK3566), and will perform similarly.

Everything 8 and 16 bit plays flawlessly, no tweaking or issues.

PS1 performance is great, and everything runs full speed at 2x resolution on the default emulator (Retroarch PCSX-R). If you use a more accurate emulator like Duckstation, most games will run 2x but some more intensive titles may need to run at 1x resolution or will be around 50-55 fps. Overall good, my recommendation is to just use the default emulator unless you encounter an issue, only change on a per game basis if needed.

Saturn emulation is surprisingly good. Switch from whatever is the default emulator to the Yaba Sanshiro standalone for best performance. 2D games all run full speed no problem, and some 3D games as well. More intensive titles will run between 40 and 59 fps depending, but Yaba Sanshiro's frameskip makes it completely transparent feels like a smooth 60 fps with no hiccups or issues. I'd say this is totally viable for Saturn emulation. Firmware updates have improved Saturn performance and many games run full speed or extremely close to it without frameskip now.

Don't buy this for N64. Lighter games like Mario 64 will be fine even upscaled without tweaking, but if you want to get into more intensive N64 games like Conker, Blast Corps, or F-Zero X, it gets rough. Slowdowns, audio crackling, dropped frames, no matter which emulator you use. It'll run, but performance is poor enough I'd recommend against it. I still hope this improves with firmware updates as the specs on this should be capable of a good amount of N64, but I've accepted it's not a great system for this handheld for now.

Dreamcast is a mixed bag too, but more positive. In testing, Flycast2021 core seems to be best with built-in frameskip, and most titles I've tried ran well. It's not always full speed, but with frameskip it runs smooth and no audio crackle or stutter. With some games, like Dead or Alive 2, it needs too much skip and is definitely noticeable. This handheld is decent for Dreamcast, but it'll depend on the game, not all will be smooth.

PSP improved greatly with JELOS updates, and many games run full speed, most at 2x PSP resolution. It won't do highly intensive games like MGS Peacewalker, Gran Turismo, Ratchet & Clank, and God of War, but anything lighter runs just fine. I've tested many games without any issues, some with frameskip, but many without. I'm pleasantly surprised, and majorly impressed with the JELOS devs.

Lastly, the GPU is decent enough to run various shaders, in some cases with multiple passes. I tend to play GBA with a custom shader with two passes (VBA-Color at 0.25 darkening + LCD1x). For 8 and 16 bit games, zfast-crt-standard works great.


Software

The X55 runs JELOS. It runs well, EmulationStation themes are supported, and they can be added manually or with Thememaster now as it's been updated to support the handheld.

Ports work fine and I’ve had success with Doom, Doom 2, Duke Nukem 3D, Sonic CD, and Sonic Mania, no issues, all running full speed. Since the 6/19 update, GZDoom works now too.

OS shortcuts work well, interface is snappy, in the rare issue like an emulator hang, there’s a reset button on the top left of the X55 that will restart the unit quickly.

Power button turns off the screen, pressing again turns it on. It now has a true deep sleep mode when you turn off the screen, I've tested it, it's as promised. Over 8 hours I think I lost 3-4% battery.

Most themes I’ve tried run smoothly and the interface is well laid out with most functions on start, select, or X button options menus when on the main screen or in a Game collection.


Closing thoughts and TL;DR

I really like this handheld! No buyer's regret, and it's an absolute bargain at its price point. I bought it mainly for 8-bit through 32-bit gaming and it's great for those, especially amazing for GBA. For more PSP/Dreamcast/N64, and higher emulation you should probably consider a T618 handheld. But for the price ($90 currently, $80 with coupon) this thing is a steal, and gets better with every JELOS update. There are some small compromises for the price, but I feel you get more than you pay for. The screen alone makes it worth it; for the first time on a handheld I feel like I can comfortably play shmups and see everything flying at me and react. I feel very comfortable recommending it, either as a first handheld, or if you just prefer a larger device.


TL;DR - some compromises for price, but decent ergonomics, big, quality screen, and great performance through 32-bit (including Saturn, surprisingly). N64 and up are "extra," performance not guranteed. Odd choices and clicky buttons may be a deal breaker for some. This is a great starter handheld, and particularly fantastic for GBA, as well as anything 32-bit and below.

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