EDIT 2 - after some further testing and comparing with a stovetop kettle for temperature retention... yeah, I'm done. Even my little stovetop gooseneck kettle is way better, despite its inconveniences. The Bodum is going back in the box and getting returned. For whatever reason it gets up to temperature but just doesn't retain it. I dunno. It's stainless steel, but maybe it's just too thin or something.

I've ordered a replacement unit (not Bodum this time, Consori temperature control kettle), and will use my stovetop/camping style kettle for now instead until it gets here.

I thought Bodum was supposed to be a good brand name in terms of coffee equipment, but this one's been a dud.

EDIT - I did some more thorough testing, both with the lid on and off the unit since making the post and I've come up with the following:

The unit itself does actually get up to 204.4f in temperature while the water is boiling. And if I leave the lid off, and it continues boiling the water, it stays at that temperature, and even gets slightly higher, which is impressive.

I think the problem comes down to the Bodum unit just being too lightweight and thin. As soon as the boiling stops and the tab pops up, checking the temp of the water shows it rapidly cools from 204f to around 190f in a matter of like... 10 seconds. It's not extremely cold in the house or anything, the room is pretty consistently around 74f.

It's either that, or maybe because it boils water so quickly, maybe it's not all heated evenly, so it's cooler when it settles? It's much faster than my old unit. But this confirms, it does reach temperature, but it's just not a usable temperature for coffee seemingly within a very short window of time.

Not sure what to make of this, or what to do next. May just say screw it and move to a stove-top one instead, though I prefer using the all in one electric kettle for efficiency. It's either that or return the Bodum and get a different model. But it doesn't appear to be defective at least.

The electric kettle I’ve been using for years (Kyerlish) just died last week and it looks like it’s not available to buy anymore.

I bought the Bodum electric kettle and it’s a simple on and off unit supposed to stop when it reaches boiling. I live at a higher altitude and our boiling point is around 204 or 205f.

When using the Bodum, I’m noticing my coffee doesn’t seem to be coming out right. I checked with a laser thermometer and I’m not sure if fully accurate due to the reflective inside surface, but it’s reading at only 189f when it shuts off. It’s definitely cooler than my old Kyerlish model that died, as the coffee is immediately a drinkable temperature right after my pour-over, and that’s not normal.

Anyone know if this is fixable? I like the kettle and it’s hard to find models that don’t have plastic components inside, but I drink light roasts and need it to get up to at least 196f (and preferably higher, like 202 to 204f).

So far I’ve made three mugs with the new kettle and they’re all coming out bland and tasting under-extracted with the same amount of beans (I’m doing pour over and I measure the beans and water out in grams, so should be consistent every time).

I'm looking to finish the back of a cabinet cheaply while maintaining a wood look on it, it's to be a kitchen island with a butcher block top. The back of the cabinet is unfinished MDF.

I was thinking for simplicity I could use wood flooring pieces like this to finish it and just add corner trims, but wondering how I could glue it down to the back. Wood glue is probably out, but would liquid nails work?

I've been playing Chrono Trigger on the Steam Deck recently (Steam version) and found myself bugged by the lack of "retro" effect options. The game is great looking on a CRT or with the right shaders, and the raw blocky pixel look just didn't suit it. Normally I'd just shrug and emulate, but I wanted to play the Steam version with the new translation, and wasn't down to play it on the smaller DS screen. So like any lunatic, I went down a rabbit hole with Reshade and tested out a ton of configurations until I found something that looks pretty good on the Deck.

Links:

• per game reshade script for Steam games

• Retroarch shaders converted for Reshade

The Steam Deck's resolution makes it hard to work with shaders in Reshade, since most shaders are designed with at least 1080p in mind, but I came to what I think is a good solution with the following combination of shaders:

• CRT-Frutbunn (main shader)

• EasymodeCRT (Slight sharpen native res, fixes frutbunn's scanlines and brightness boost)

• Vibrance (slight color saturation increase)

I've included my settings with the screenshots below. I love the depth it's adding to the image in the shading and making the characters look more grounded in the space. CT has really great colors and shading, but the raw pixel look kind of loses that. The effect is subtle, but really works well IMO. Might be hard to tell on the screenshots (be sure to open the full size images), but on the OLED Deck in handheld mode it looks great, and even has some bloom, just a really smooth but clean retro look.

I wasn't sure if it'd be a fluke and just work for Chrono Trigger, so I copied the shader config over to TMNT: Shredder's Revenge and it looks pretty great there too (and as a bonus, makes the intro video look more like the old cartoon). Seems like this should work fine for any pixel art game.

Note: If you want to try this docked, it looks good on the TV too, but you need to set EasymodeCRT's resolution (screen and frame width/height) to whatever your resolution is (I do 1080p docked, YMMV).

Full Album (Note - images don't look great here, compression)

Better pics:

• Chrono Trigger raw pixels

• Chrono Trigger Shader

TMNT comparisons:

• https://c.l3n.co/i/ojBxi2.jpg

• https://a.l3n.co/i/ojBy9v.jpg

• https://c.l3n.co/i/ojBX3o.jpg

• https://b.l3n.co/i/ojBbN9.jpg

• https://c.l3n.co/i/ojBFXm.jpg

• https://a.l3n.co/i/ojBcri.jpg

Reshade settings

New house, was built/finished just under two years ago. I live in a dry climate, have been in my house for two years and only now discovered this. After some recent storms led to water in my window track I found my rear sliding windows have weep holes in the bottom, but they weren't draining.

After a lot of testing (filling the track with water, shop vac'ing it out, blower testing with air gun, suction with vacuum, etc.) I realized the weep holes in the interior of the window track and the weep holes on the exterior have no connection whatsoever. No water goes from inside to outside, and air blowing through exterior hole is felt through other exterior, and likewise with the interior, but nothing is going from interior to exterior. Water in the inside track will drain until the portion underneath fills and then pools up, and likewise, if I spray water in the exterior weep holes, nothing gets to the inside track, but it eventually comes out the exterior weep hole on the other side.

After some research, I found it's not uncommon for this to happen, it's a common defect with these sort of windows and I just drilled into the exterior weep hole with a 1/8 bit until it met the interior channel and sure enough, the water drains out as expected now. Put the window track back in, window back on, and tested pouring water in the track, it's draining perfectly now.

My only questions are, do I have anything to be concerned about with this DIY fix? Since the climate here is normally very dry (high desert, Colorado) and moisture evaporates quickly, I'm not worried about mold, but is there anything to keep bugs from getting in through the weep holes? They're not covered in any way. Also, will there be any winter concerns with the cold in sub-zero temperatures or snow/ice build up?

Apologies if these are dumb questions, but I'd literally never heard of weep holes until this week, with discovering the issue. So not sure what potential issues they might have, and honestly no way to know if I fixed this as intended.

The current build of Jelos updated the libSDL from v2600.5 to 2800.1 and it broke a few ports. In particular the ones I know of are Panzer Paladin and TMNT: Shredder's Revenge. Both are fixed with the instructions below.

I saw in some threads people asking about it so here's the fix:

You'll need a copy of the 7/26 JELOS build or before from the github releases page and copy out the libSDL files from /usr/lib. To do this, you'll need to download the tar archive, then use something like 7zip to extract the SYSTEM file to a folder.

Copy off all the the libSDL2 related files that have a file size (ignore the ones that list as 0kb in size, those are symlinks). All told there are something like six files you need, the 2.0.so.02600.5 file, the ttf file, the image file, gfx file, and mixer.

You need to rename the filesaccording to the SDL2-CD.dll.config set in the game folder at /storage/roms/ports//dlls/

If you prefer, I already have all the correct files and renamed as needed. You can download them in zipped format here.

Once you have the correct files, correctly named, copy them into /storage/roms/ports//libs/

Lastly, edit the game's .sh file in /storage/roms/ports/ to add the following lines:

# # # export path for local libSDL
export LD_PRELOAD=$gamedir/libs/libSDL2.so.0

Add that to the script on its own line. I put it at line 29, after the "Loading... Please Wait." echo output line. Anywhere after the get_controls line should be fine.

If you mess up the file, or run into problems, the full file should look like this one.

From there, save it and run the game. And that should be it.

If you gather the files yourself instead of using the ones from the ZIP I linked and the game loads sideways (in portrait), get the libSDL2-2.0.so.0.2600.5 from the SYSTEM folder in the /usr/lib/SDL2-rotated path instead of /usr/lib, and copy it to your game's lib directory on the handheld, and rename it to libSDL2-2.0.so.0 to fix.

I noticed that darker games on my x55 didn’t look good, like dark tones and blacks were almost inverted looking at stock settings. After a bit of tweaking, setting gamma from default (50%) to 67% got everything looking good.

After checking out a few YouTube videos it seems the gamma level on the display varies between units. I’ve seen it look good on default in some and even up to 100% on one video. Play with the setting and dial it in to what looks best for you.

If it helps I’m currently using:

• brightness 68%
• gamma 67%
• contrast 52%
• saturation 60%

I’ve got a Powkiddy X55 and I’m really enjoying it, but for some games I find even its 5.5” screen to be fairly small for the task, particularly when looking at games from the 32-bit era and up.

How on earth are people actually managing to play these games on 3.5” and 2.8” displays? I feel like it would be really cramped for screen real estate or you’d basically be holding the device in front of your nose just to play it.

Fanatical has some awesome game bundles. The other night I picked up a bundle of 5 games for like $7 and Doom Eternal for around $8.

They're neat because their bundles usually have many games and the discount allows to to select 2, 3, 5, etc. out of the bundle at the discounted priced at your choice.

Thought I'd mention it since many people are aware of Steam sales and Humble Bundle bundles but I don't see much talk about Fanatical.

I recently bought the Powkiddy X55 and reviewed it on reddit here. Now that I've had it a for a month how is it? Great!

Some of this will be a retread of my original review, but I wanted to post an update with some new detail since the firmware has improved greatly since release, and some things have changed/improved over time.

TL;DR at the bottom.

Build quality and feel

# Screen

The display is a 5.5" IPS with good viewing angles. It's a quality display, good vibrant color, and you have the ability to adjust contrast, brightness, gamma, and hue in the system settings.

Vertical viewing angles aren't as good as horizontal, but it's pretty decent. It also gets very bright, unlike the prerelease models you may have seen on youtube. Extremely bright, in fact. I'm generally only using it at 60% brightness.

The screen is flush with the frame and there's zero light bleed, which is nice.

Despite being 16:9, it makes for a fairly large screen for any platform, even 4:3 or 1:1 stuff. It's great, and there's nothing else near this size for the price.

# Shell

The X55 feels pretty lightweight. I don't expect it to hold up to any high drops. It is firm though, no flex or creaking. I disassembled it fairly easily, and the shell clips are strong enough to hold it together without screws. The 8 screws probably help to keep it sturdy and prevent any flexing.

# Buttons and sticks

First, the good. I love the feel of the face buttons and d-pad. They work well, don't stick at all, and are not dissimilar to the 2DS XL in feel. The d-pad is soft on touch, not clicky, and same for the buttons.

The dpad is a bit larger than what I'd consider "normal" and the size makes it a bit difficult for rolling motions for fighting games. I can do something like a hadouken (back-down-foward), but trying to do a dragon punch doesn't always work unless I do the motion a bit slowly. There are also some false diagonals on up and down. After several weeks of use, the d-pad is breaking in nicely though, doesn't feel as stiff as when I bought it. It's getting easier to do fighting games motions and for general use it's fine.

One complaint with the face buttons: height. They sit high and have long travel. Feels like they should have been a bit shorter for comfort and responsiveness. Also, the distance between the face buttons feels too wide, but that probably has to do with the height, since they have flat sides instead of being largely rounded.

The top (R/L) buttons are pretty good. R1/L1 are a bit narrow, but easy to reach. I do feel like they sit a bit high which can make switching between L/R1 and L/R2 more awkward than it needs to be, but overall they're good otherwise. The top buttons are clicky sounding, but I don't mind that, YMMV. This isn't a powerful enough handheld for platforms that use analog triggers, so I'm not bothered by the lack of analog press.

Many reviews noted that the R and L buttons are very loud. It's true but they do seem to have gotten quieter with use over time; I guess as they break in.

Start/select and volume buttons are clicky and loud, that's unchanged from when it was brand new. They're solid feeling, and flush with the unit. I don't mind the button style but some won't like this. Placement of start and select is a bit awkward. I don't hate it, but it's far from ideal. Also, volume up is on the left, and volume down on the right. Small thing, but it's the reverse of what you'd expect.

The sticks are decent. I'm not a fan of these short, Switch style sticks, but they feel good, are comfortable to use, and have a solid click for L3/R3 press. They're recessed and in motion they feel like they have a bit of 8-way gating. Full range of motion, but they do seem to be a bit sensitive given the short travel distance on them. I've had no issues with games that use the analog like for Dreamcast or N64.

# Audio

We have stereo speakers (maybe a first for Powkiddy?) and they sound great. This thing gets very loud without distortion. I like it, and at 100% volume I think I could hear it from the other end of my house and through multiple rooms.

# Ergonomics

The X55 is ergonomic, with a slight curve at the back sides where you'd expect on a gamepad. It's subdued to reduce thickness, but enough to lend grip and make it comfortable to rest your fingers behind. It's well balanced, and holding it by either side feels the same, the weight is centered well.

Despite being ergonomic overall, it's not perfect. The d-pad is below the left stick, leaving your hands offset for most games you'd play on this unless you're comfortable using the stick instead. I wish the d-pad was on top. Small complaint, but with the d-pad low on the unit I notice my pinky can hang off the frame. Primary stick was an odd choice for this since it'll mostly be playing d-pad based games.

I've noticed over time with using it I've adjusted my grip to compensate, and it's stillcomfortable over longer sessions.

Performance

If you're familiar with the RG353M/P, you'll know what to expect here. This runs on the same chip (RK3566), and will perform similarly.

Everything 8 and 16 bit plays flawlessly, no tweaking or issues.

PS1 performance is great, and everything runs full speed at 2x resolution on the default emulator (Retroarch PCSX-R). If you use a more accurate emulator like Duckstation, most games will run 2x but some more intensive titles may need to run at 1x resolution or will be around 50-55 fps. Overall good, my recommendation is to just use the default emulator unless you encounter an issue, only change on a per game basis if needed.

Saturn emulation is surprisingly good. Switch from whatever is the default emulator to the Yaba Sanshiro standalone for best performance. 2D games all run full speed no problem, and some 3D games as well. More intensive titles will run between 40 and 59 fps depending, but Yaba Sanshiro's frameskip makes it completely transparent feels like a smooth 60 fps with no hiccups or issues. I'd say this is totally viable for Saturn emulation. Firmware updates have improved Saturn performance and many games run full speed or extremely close to it without frameskip now.

Don't buy this for N64. Lighter games like Mario 64 will be fine even upscaled without tweaking, but if you want to get into more intensive N64 games like Conker, Blast Corps, or F-Zero X, it gets rough. Slowdowns, audio crackling, dropped frames, no matter which emulator you use. It'll run, but performance is poor enough I'd recommend against it. I still hope this improves with firmware updates as the specs on this should be capable of a good amount of N64, but I've accepted it's not a great system for this handheld for now.

Dreamcast is a mixed bag too, but more positive. In testing, Flycast2021 core seems to be best with built-in frameskip, and most titles I've tried ran well. It's not always full speed, but with frameskip it runs smooth and no audio crackle or stutter. With some games, like Dead or Alive 2, it needs too much skip and is definitely noticeable. This handheld is decent for Dreamcast, but it'll depend on the game, not all will be smooth.

PSP improved greatly with JELOS updates, and many games run full speed, most at 2x PSP resolution. It won't do highly intensive games like MGS Peacewalker, Gran Turismo, Ratchet & Clank, and God of War, but anything lighter runs just fine. I've tested many games without any issues, some with frameskip, but many without. I'm pleasantly surprised, and majorly impressed with the JELOS devs.

Lastly, the GPU is decent enough to run various shaders, in some cases with multiple passes. I tend to play GBA with a custom shader with two passes (VBA-Color at 0.25 darkening + LCD1x). For 8 and 16 bit games, zfast-crt-standard works great.

Software

The X55 runs JELOS. It runs well, EmulationStation themes are supported, and they can be added manually or with Thememaster now as it's been updated to support the handheld.

Ports work fine and I’ve had success with Doom, Doom 2, Duke Nukem 3D, Sonic CD, and Sonic Mania, no issues, all running full speed. Since the 6/19 update, GZDoom works now too.

OS shortcuts work well, interface is snappy, in the rare issue like an emulator hang, there’s a reset button on the top left of the X55 that will restart the unit quickly.

Power button turns off the screen, pressing again turns it on. It now has a true deep sleep mode when you turn off the screen, I've tested it, it's as promised. Over 8 hours I think I lost 3-4% battery.

Most themes I’ve tried run smoothly and the interface is well laid out with most functions on start, select, or X button options menus when on the main screen or in a Game collection.

Closing thoughts and TL;DR

I really like this handheld! No buyer's regret, and it's an absolute bargain at its price point. I bought it mainly for 8-bit through 32-bit gaming and it's great for those, especially amazing for GBA. For more PSP/Dreamcast/N64, and higher emulation you should probably consider a T618 handheld. But for the price ($90 currently, $80 with coupon) this thing is a steal, and gets better with every JELOS update. There are some small compromises for the price, but I feel you get more than you pay for. The screen alone makes it worth it; for the first time on a handheld I feel like I can comfortably play shmups and see everything flying at me and react. I feel very comfortable recommending it, either as a first handheld, or if you just prefer a larger device.

TL;DR - some compromises for price, but decent ergonomics, big, quality screen, and great performance through 32-bit (including Saturn, surprisingly). N64 and up are "extra," performance not guranteed. Odd choices and clicky buttons may be a deal breaker for some. This is a great starter handheld, and particularly fantastic for GBA, as well as anything 32-bit and below.