Do-It-Yourself, Repairs and Fixes

I'm interested in modding some old Xbox 360 and PS2 controllers. I see hall effect sticks for sale online but I'm not sure if it's as easy as replacing them and being done with it. I've read that DualSense controllers require calibration or something. Is it a difficult task to mod game controllers? I do have basic soldering skills. Thank you. Also, sorry if this isn't the best community for my question. It seemed the most relevant.

I have a Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny (10FL) which has been working fine. Recently, I had an HDD failure, and replaced it with an SSD. This time, I decided to go with ZFS (single drive, kinda pointless, but I get scrubbing). Every once in a while, I'm getting errors while scrubbing. It's always 1-2 read or write errors. And it never reappears if I clear the error and run another scrub.

The data isn't important, and it's backed up, so I'm not too worried about it. But, the symptoms make me think that it's an issue of the SATA port inside. Is it possible to replace the SATA port inside this device? I wasn't able to find anything like part number etc. online and it looks like I need to replace the whole board. Any help is appreciated.

I have two previous phones with cracked screens but are otherwise functioning devices. I was thinking about fixing them and giving one to a relative and use the other for its camera. I've noticed that many aftermarket screens that you find on eBay and Amazon on much cheaper than OEM suppliers like iFixit. Sure, there are "for parts" listings on eBay but rarely do they have a good screen. So those (somewhat) cheap aftermarket screens seem like a good deal. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

So my Siemens Fridge has been acting weird lately. The freezer under the fridge has randomly started to cool to -30°C. The temperature is set to -18°C and the freezer actually gets back to that after reaching -30 for a while and then warming back up again. It sounds like the compressor is working almost the entire day and the temperature at the top seems to almost always display the correct temperature. Ive yet to check wether it actually reaches -30, but my vegetables in the fridge have started to freeze 🙃 Ive noticed that manually rebooting the fridge helps to get it started and I plan on doing it automated until I can fix it myself. Siemens wants 120€ just for a technician to come look the the problem and because I am a cheap college student, I'd really like to fix it myself. Is there any steps I can take to further locate the problem or should I let a technician come look at my fridge?

Its a Siemens KG25FA40/01 fridge and freezer.

Thanks in advance :)

I have a Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra that I'm considering for a midframe replacement. Is a heatless display opener safe to use to separate the display panel from the frame? I've opened a fair few iPhones before but I've only ever done midframe + display replacements for androids. This is my personal device so I'm just trying to save money. I feel like I'll probably end up taking a loss if I try to sell the panel and frame, as I'd rather not replace those with aftermarket parts, so I'd just like to ditch the current frame itself.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/46981383

While iFixit's iOpener is a good tool and it was what I used replace the screen on my Pixel 7 Pro but I think a heat plate is a better option for any future project. I have two older phones that I want to fix up but this time I want to do things a little more 'professional.' There's a heat plate that Hugh Jeffreys uses (example here) but I haven't been able to find that exact one or even a similar product. During my search for a heat plate, I saw recommendations for a heat mat called CPB. While it looks like a good tool, it gives off the impression of a hobbyist project rather than a professional job. I will consider, though, if I can't find any good heat plates. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45JhacvmXV8

In this video we learn how to recycle cardboard into durable, waterproof projects that can be built nearly for free!

Wheat paste based glue, UV protection, and non biodegradable alternative demonstrated.

Still planning on using cardboard molded stuff in my present projects, so this recent upload is very apropos. As a former pro automotive painter, I could easily use several finishing techniques to make far better surfaces than this video, if I was not so physically limited. The cardboard clay is begging to become heavier body filler, and a newspaper pulp would likely make a finishing surface.

In order to make milking the cow easier, I built this head stanchion. The diagonal board slides up into place and when it's vertical, there is a 1-in hole drilled through all three boards. The front and back sandwich boards are 2x6s as is the diagonal sliding board. I had planned on sliding the board into place and then inserting a bolt through all three holes to lock it in place. She's too fast for me, and backs her head out knocking the board out of place before I can get the bolt through. I tried looking for spring-loaded plunger latches, but none of them are long enough or thick enough. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain. Any idea that might make this easier. I'm not married to the idea of using some sort of spring-loaded mechanism, but I will certainly entertain any idea that might make this easier.

Any ideas on how I can accomplish this? Thank you in advance

hi there. my partner recently bought a ninja air fryer secondhand that unfortunately has a layer of rust inside the cook pot and on the removable grill we couldn’t see in the pictures. any suggestions on what to use to clean it up? is it even safe to prepare food in?

if it’s relevant it’s one of the “single basket” models. hope this is ok to post, thanks all

Problem

The laptop's keyboard works properly when the computer on first boots up, but if the computer enters any kind of low power state (i.e. goes to sleep, restarts, or shuts down) while still having a charged battery/power source plugged in then the keyboard stops working (even in the BIOS), except the backlight works and the brightness/accessory keys work. This problem persists in both windows and linux distros. On NixOS, the booting sequence messages a couple ACPI BIOS errors before starting and occasionally the kernel sends usb errors (error -71) which then crashes the desktop environment. When using 'showkey', some keys send very weird key presses.

What I've Tried

• multiple Operating Systems
• updating the BIOS, then flashing it back
• unplugging the keyboard from the motherboard, then replugging it

Looking for research ideas to add an exhaust fan in my bathroom. The room is small. Behind the door is the toilet, then a small sink cupboard, then a tub/shower with a window that opens by sliding upwards.

I don't think there's any electricity past the sink. Walls are lath and plaster.

And I'm not super skilled, but also not completely inept.

Are there any minimally invasive approaches for me to look into, or is this a full on contractor situation?

Thanks for any ideas.

Not for any real purpose yet but I think it would be a fun project and could help us get used to using secure communications outside of our phones. Does anyone have experience setting one up? Also there was a guide posted somewhere on Lemmy recently that I am having trouble finding if anyone could share.

Hello everyone! I need some help.

While I was playing a game on my Xbox, my favorite FightPad broke. (See pictures for more details.) I would like to know if any of you know if and where I can find a replacement directional button for it. Or alternatively, if someone already made a 3D model of said button I could print.

In advance, thanks!

The W and R keys don't work on my ASUS vivobook flip 14 and I would like to fix them so I can give the laptop to a friend. The reason they stopped working is because I spilled water on them a long time ago. Other than that, the laptop works perfectly fine.

I saw some teardown videos for an entire keyboard replacement for it, but it looks wayyyyyy too complicated and easy to mess up. I have expierence replacing stuff like batteries and SSDs in computers.

Is there a way to replace/fix those two keys without taking out the entire motherboard?

I have a few devices that I can get into but haven't been able to find out which chip does what. Any tips?

So I had a taillight bulb go out on me this week, and changing that bulb was simple enough, but also not particularly obvious. Had to look it up and could only find a overly long winded youtube video on it. In the interest of saving some one else the headache of scrubbing through a 20 min video to get answer that could have been explained in 2 minute short, I figured I would write it out.

Tools and Parts list

• Flat head screwdriver
• 8mm deepwell socket or wrench (A standard socket might work, but a baby socket won't. Long bolts.)
• Replacement bulb
  • The red brake and taillight bulb is a white 7443 bulb. )
  • The turn signal bulb is an amber 7440A
  • The reverse light is a 921

Instructions:

1.) Open the trunk. (Yes, I'm a smart ass :-D )
2.) On the rear (driver's perspective) corner of the trunk on the side with the blown bulb, look for a removable plastic rivet. Place under the center part of the rivet, a flathead screwdriver and lever the center part up, then pull the rivet out. If you try to remove the rivet before poping the center part up you will break the rivet.
3.) Pull the carpet to the side to reveal where the back of the tail light assembly should be. You will find 2 long bolts secured with 8mm nuts.
4.) Remove the 8mm nuts.
5.) Applying rearward pressure to the exposed bolts and the outside of the assembly, remove the assembly. It slides off to the rear, not the side. This will take a bit for force, but not much. Be careful not to damage the tail light assembly or damage the wiring harness. The wiring harness has roughly 8 inches of play.
6.) You now have access to the bulb holders for the tail/brake light, turn signal, and reverse light. The bulb holders twist loose and it shouldn't take much force. The bulbs themselves are a friction fit into the bulb holders.
7.) Reverse these steps to reassemble.

My wife and I are quite shit at design but are pretty handy. We recently bought a house, and we want to make the backyard a great hang out spot, but have no idea how to make it look good. I contacted a local landscaper about just paying for a design/plan and we would just DIY it but they never called us back. Is this an okay thing to hire for? Or do landscapers usually want to do the work themselves?

I was cooking some food when I noticed a burning plastic smell and some smoke coming out of the knob, I let it cool down, and when I turned it back on, there wasn't any smoke but the burning smell returned, is the plate damaged, or is it some stuck food being burned?

The burning plastic smell seems to be coming from the plate, even when it is dissassembled like this, i can smell it from the centre.

Hi,

I tried contacting PowerA about which parts I'd need to fix joystick drift and a sticky directional button, but they would not help.

It's a long shot, but does anyone know if the parts needed are available for purchase? I don't like making e-waste.

Alternatively, does anyone know of a good Android controller that can be repaired easily? (e.g. Something I won't have to make custom silicone pads for or otherwise get too technical.) Or should I just get a wireless XBox controller?

Thanks

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.

Refrigerator is a Frigidaire LTFR1832TF0.

Leak came from the front-right side.

I did not notice any temperature fluctuations, but I also don't notice much of anything. It still seemed cold when I unplugged it, though!

Checked the drain pan & it seems dry? Not overflowing or anything.

No water on inside of refrigerator.

Anyone have any idea what might be going on? I'd really appreciate it, as no one can take a look for another 3 days.

I don't want my food to spoil, as I don't have a lot of money. I just want to know if it'd be safe to plug it back in!

Thank you.

I have some headphones with a broken 3.5" jack. The headphones are perfectly fine, but my son and his ps4 shatter them when conecting it to the controller. Any tuto to solder the jacks?? they have a microphone.

I have a friend who lives in a Section 8 housing apartment and the dryer vent (that normally sticks out enough to connect a dryer to) is broken off flush with the wall by previous tenants. I believe it's also glued/foam filled into place, so it can't be easily pulled further out or anything. They'd probably get in trouble if they modified anything excessively anyway. No pictures, sorry.

They have a stacked washer/dryer that works, but cannot use them due to no venting. There is no way that the landlord will fix it, as they refused to fix many bigger, more dangerous things until the state forced them to. They are just stuck with the apartment that they have. Also, they currently have a negative income, so I'd have to fix it out of my pocket. Currently they just walk to a laundry place and pay a bunch of money (that they don't have) to wash their things.

Is there some sort of trick that's still safe, like a metal insert that you can put into the vent to extend it? Some way to make it usable without modifying the building?

This is Washington State, USA, so it'd need to pretty much follow laws/code if at all possible.

Thank you.

Hey, I just repaired one of my earbuds, which required me to open up the casing. Now the casing opens up way to easily at the seam, therefore I want to reseal it.

Can someone give me tips on what glue to use? I want the glue to be able to re-liquefy under a bit of heat treatment, as I may need to open it up again in the future, and it should be water-proof. The material is some kind of hard plastic.

Also some application tips and tricks would be nice, as the area is very very narrow and I don't have the steadiest of hands.