Do-It-Yourself, Repairs and Fixes

My wife and I are quite shit at design but are pretty handy. We recently bought a house, and we want to make the backyard a great hang out spot, but have no idea how to make it look good. I contacted a local landscaper about just paying for a design/plan and we would just DIY it but they never called us back. Is this an okay thing to hire for? Or do landscapers usually want to do the work themselves?

I was cooking some food when I noticed a burning plastic smell and some smoke coming out of the knob, I let it cool down, and when I turned it back on, there wasn't any smoke but the burning smell returned, is the plate damaged, or is it some stuck food being burned?

The burning plastic smell seems to be coming from the plate, even when it is dissassembled like this, i can smell it from the centre.

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.

Refrigerator is a Frigidaire LTFR1832TF0.

Leak came from the front-right side.

I did not notice any temperature fluctuations, but I also don't notice much of anything. It still seemed cold when I unplugged it, though!

Checked the drain pan & it seems dry? Not overflowing or anything.

No water on inside of refrigerator.

Anyone have any idea what might be going on? I'd really appreciate it, as no one can take a look for another 3 days.

I don't want my food to spoil, as I don't have a lot of money. I just want to know if it'd be safe to plug it back in!

Thank you.

I have some headphones with a broken 3.5" jack. The headphones are perfectly fine, but my son and his ps4 shatter them when conecting it to the controller. Any tuto to solder the jacks?? they have a microphone.

I have a friend who lives in a Section 8 housing apartment and the dryer vent (that normally sticks out enough to connect a dryer to) is broken off flush with the wall by previous tenants. I believe it's also glued/foam filled into place, so it can't be easily pulled further out or anything. They'd probably get in trouble if they modified anything excessively anyway. No pictures, sorry.

They have a stacked washer/dryer that works, but cannot use them due to no venting. There is no way that the landlord will fix it, as they refused to fix many bigger, more dangerous things until the state forced them to. They are just stuck with the apartment that they have. Also, they currently have a negative income, so I'd have to fix it out of my pocket. Currently they just walk to a laundry place and pay a bunch of money (that they don't have) to wash their things.

Is there some sort of trick that's still safe, like a metal insert that you can put into the vent to extend it? Some way to make it usable without modifying the building?

This is Washington State, USA, so it'd need to pretty much follow laws/code if at all possible.

Thank you.

Hey, I just repaired one of my earbuds, which required me to open up the casing. Now the casing opens up way to easily at the seam, therefore I want to reseal it.

Can someone give me tips on what glue to use? I want the glue to be able to re-liquefy under a bit of heat treatment, as I may need to open it up again in the future, and it should be water-proof. The material is some kind of hard plastic.

Also some application tips and tricks would be nice, as the area is very very narrow and I don't have the steadiest of hands.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/55668

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/664462779759271734

If you use enough electrical tape, that counts as a junction box, right?

I'm a hack myself, so I get it, but jeez. A wet application like a dishwasher installation really isn't the place for this sort of carelessness.

The second picture shows how I remotely open a circuit breaker.

This post is a follow to my previous dishwasher install post (https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/664264701761318465).

#diy #dishwasher #linoleum #electrical

@crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/55555

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/664264701761318465

It's Friday night! Let's install the new dishwasher!

#diy #lfg #appliance #linoleum

@crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

Looking to combine:

ESP8266 1/2/4/8/16 Channel Way Wireless WIFI Relay Module AC/DC 5V/7-28V/5-80V + Usbc trigger 12v modules + 12v 10A (possibly more or 2 split between half of relays) power supply connected in parallel across all relays + Buck converter to drop 12v to 5v to power relays

Purpose? Want to migrate all my power for my devices for my network equipment that support 12v to usbc. I will probably get the 16 relay and split up 4 sections to the usbc specs (5v,9v,12v,20v) for all my device power needs.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Has anyone tried this?

So i have a LG 65sj850t-ta TV. Its been a great TV for a few years but recently its started having issues streaming with pauses etc and can not pass an upload test on any of the speed test apps or websites.

I'm not entirely sure if its the Main card or not but at 100 odd dollars its sure cheaper then a 3000 dollar TV.

Has anyone changed out a main card before? Im a Crane Technician so i am not unfamiliar with this sort of work, just i have never worked on a television before.

(Picture is samsung tv infront of LG tv for trouble shooting)

This setup allows Arduino to read temperature, control relay based on setpoints, display info on OLED screen, and manage date/time settings with user input through buttons. Adjust based on specific hardware/project requirements.

Designed to replace the faulty electronic control of a blue heat radiator.

Code and simulation at Wokwi

Licensed under GNU GPLv3.

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/641007525326911401

Finally fixed my refrigerator.

The previous owners of the house inexplicably cut the water line to the fridge, so I reconnected it only to find out that the ice maker would keep leaking water. That was happening because the solenoid valve that allows flow to the ice maker wasn't closing properly. Fortunately, it was an easy replacement, just a couple of screws and push connections.

#diy #RightToRepair

@crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

TLDR: Broken Chassis on HP Pavillion 15.6 Gaming Laptop, Originally Plastic Case, Wanting to Know if I Can Replace with Metal Case

Hello, I have an HP Pavilion 15.6 ec Gaming Laptop. There is an issue with the back case and front case, specifically the plastic near the hinges cracking and deteriorating. I took it to a laptop shop and they confirmed this issue, they are charging me more than what they repair should be. I am planning to do the repair at home on my own, but I would like to know if the replacement could be done with metal cases, and if so, where would I be able to make such a purchase. For now if there are no options for this, I will go with a plastic one The cracks in question:

Laptop specifications:

I just got this keyboard for free because a few parts on the PCB need to be replaced.

But I have trouble getting it open because one of the screws has been completely mangled:

The screw sits directly under this spot:

But that's also exactly where there is a PCB inside that I don't want to ruin by not being careful.

The things where the screw is in looks like this: Bottom: Top:

I hope maybe someone has an idea how to get it open without destroying the PCB which is very close to it.

My Binkols 25-quart air fryer TO-A24 model is only toasting now. The other functions, such as air fry, broil, warm, and bake, all stopped working.

I've tried google/youtube and can't seem to find any decent tutorials/instructions for my particular situation, so I'm hoping someone can help get me started on this repair job. I don't necessarily need a full breakdown or step-by-step instructional, but some help with the terminology, techniques and materials I would need to learn and use to accomplish this project would be greatly appreciated!

The project is the interior face of a very old chimney that protrudes through the floor of a 3rd floor bedroom and up through the ceiling. I believe the term for the stuff on there now is called "render" as it is like a stucco/plaster smooth-ish finish nearly an inch thick overtop of the original brick. This finish coat is in bad condition and falling off the brick near the ceiling. The rest of it is still holding but there are some cracks and I'd rather not test its integrity until I know what my plan is. The chimney is lined already and is used exclusively as a vent for a propane boiler in the basement. There are no fireplaces or anything in use anymore. This is in an early 19th century farmhouse in the US, so the brick is very old but still solid (no loose bricks or anything like that). Bits of the mortar are loose and will likely need to be re-pointed if I take any of this stuff down but I'm happy to do that.

Ultimately I just want it to look nice, not be falling apart and creating dust, and probably most importantly: not leak any rogue gas fumes into our soon-to-be guestroom. I think because the chimney has a liner in it already, the gas isn't an issue but I didn't put it in so I really can't be certain of what kind of job was done. I'll put a CO2 monitor in the room regardless, but would rather avoid that problem altogether. I'm fine with either reinforcing the render to give it a few more years or cleaning it all off and resurfacing the brick somehow. Any suggestions?

I have a Rexing Dashcam that I've used for a couple years, and lately it's been behaving badly. It works perfectly fine while on, but when it's time for it to shut down, it often will shut off early, then reboot over and over until its internal battery is totally dead.

Everyone on the net says it's a bad card. Nope. It does mess up the card's partition by quitting in an uncontrolled fashion and by rebooting over and over, but I took the thing apart and the real problem was that the little internal battery is swollen and almost dead.

All the battery does is provide the camera with up to 30 seconds to save the currently captured video and perform a controlled shutdown, and as such, it's quite small. The battery in my V1LG was a 602040 3.7V 450mAh lipo. It was pretty badly swollen (they are supposed to be relatively flat). I've ordered a cheap replacement for $7, which is a lot cheaper than a new dashcam.

Anyway, if your dashcam is behaving oddly at power-down, and you've tried different cards with no success, it may be your battery.

$15 for keyboard tilt clips is outrageous. Luckily I had some cheap steel wire laying around from Christmas.

I have a solar panel from a cheap Walmart device I tore down. Hooking it to a Multi-Meter shows it's about 2.25V (probably supposed to be 2.5V but runs a little low?).

What's something useful I can do with it?

Realizing that this would be a clutch heirloom to have cast of my mother and grandmother.... think they'd go for it?

Or make one of myself and specify in my will that to inherit, any heirs have to make pan de muerto in it and eat it...