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Connectors come loose, which makes them dangerous.
They are uninsulated points that allow water and material ingress, and can partially or fully pull apart, causing arching. Which can cause combustion.
This is the main reason these are dangerous, which the majority of this entire thread misses. The added length or connector resistance is somewhat negligible here unless you're daisy chaining long conductors, which often isn't the case for in-home extensions.
It increases the risk of electrical overload and overheating as it adds more resistance to the circuit.
Thanks for the response! Would you mind going a bit more in depth about that please? I could understand increasing the risk of overload if you were to daisychain power boards, as they add more power points to the circuit than it was designed for. But extension cords (at least in my experience) only have 2 ends - one with a single plug receptacle, and the other that plugs into a power point
Is it the actual connection between the two that adds more resistance to it? If it were the wiring, then wouldn't that also pose a problem for longer extension cords?
In either case, what sort of resistance add are we talking about (feel free to pick random lengths of examples make it easier to explain)?
The longer the cable, the thicker (heavier gauge) it needs to be to carry the same current without burning up. One extension cord is rated to carry the current it alone is able to carry. Put two of those in series, and both of them together are able to carry less current than either one by itself. This is how fires start.
This is incorrect. I need to increase gauge for voltage drop. Overloading the cable via length can only happen if I have a motor or other magnetic load at the end. A motor will try to draw it's designed wattage regardless of voltage. A wire of a given ampacity will handle that many amps regardless of the length of the conductor. The relationship is power = voltage x current and voltage = current x resistance for single phase. The fire concern on extension cords tied together indoors is you have 100% strung that shit through a doorway or window, which is a code violation. You are going to pinch it and burn your shit down. all outdoor plugs are gfci these days and on site i can have 4 or 5 extension cords tied together. i only get 109 volts at the end but a heater is a resistive load. Doesnt matter for that application.
It's obvious you know more or less all there is to know about this topic. So much so that I suspect you have trouble explaining it to laypersons like me because it's difficult for you to determine which parts of your knowledge are obvious common knowledge and which parts are specialist knowledge.
The super simple explanation is that the wires are too small. The water hose analogy breaks down fairly quickly, but I'll try using it. Imagine a garden hose, with a regular nozzle on the end. But it's not a perfect world, and our hose doesn't transfer all the water that goes into it. Think of this as ten pinprick holes along every meter of hose. If we have ten meters of hose, that's fine, we only need to turn on the tap a little bit to get a decent spray out of the nozzle, and a little bit will dribble out these holes. Now let's join another hose on. We lose more water to leakage, so to get the same amount of water out of our nozzle, we have to turn on the tap more, giving it a bit more water flow. Now, our pinprick holes are not just dribbling, they're flowing freely. Now let's take it to the extreme- we join a thousand garden hoses together, all leaking a little bit. We have to turn the tap on A Lot More, and suddenly our pinpricks are spraying a serious amount of water everywhere. Now imagine we use a bigger hose. Let's take it to the extreme again and say it's a big stormwater pipe. But the key part here is that it has the same amount of holes, ten pinpricks per meter. This way, we can get heaps more water down that pipe, more than enough to give that water nozzle everything it wants. Also, because our pressure can remain low, those pinpricks are only leaking a little bit, not spraying everywhere. This is getting pretty wordy and unwieldy to type out on my phone, so I'll try and bring it into the real world a bit more. An electrical load, like a motor (say a compressor in a fridge, a circular saw, etc) is like to our nozzle. It will pull more current (amps, or water flow) to maintain the same amount of power output (water coming out of the nozzle). As we get a longer conductor, the voltage drop (pressure reduction due to water lost to the pinpricks) gets larger, and our voltage at the end of a conductor gets lower. Power = voltage * current, so if that voltage is lower, to get the same power we need more current. More current means more heating. More heat in a small cable means melting. Physics has a way out for us, thankfully! The thicker a cable is, the less voltage drop it has, kind of like our stormwater pipe. So the voltage remains at a normal level at the motor, and consequently the motor draws a normal amount of current. This is why longer extensions are generally a lot thicker than shorter ones. If you're interested in the math, let me know, it's actually pretty fascinating, and ties into why long distance power lines are all super high voltage, among many other things. The basic equations are also not too hard to work with.
Others have pretty much mentioned it. Too thin of conductors for the total length required which can overload the cable and heat it up. If you’re just charging your phone it’s unlikely to cause a problem but the more amps you pull the riskier it gets.
Here’s a helpful chart…
Edit: Even at harbor freight (cheap hardware store) a 50ft 12 gauge extension cord is about $40 and weighs 7 pounds.
lol "gauge"
americans will use anything except the metric system
I've always found gauge to be especially odd, because the number gets smaller as you go bigger, so at one point you can't go any further even though you can go fatter.
Oh ffs I should've known.
Yup, I work with 4/0 (0000) cable pretty regularly, for things like generators or powering large systems. We have a few trunks full of cable, and it takes a crew of 2 or 3 to actually lay it because it’s so heavy. Usually one person pushing the trunk along, one focuses on uncoiling it from the trunk, and one focuses on actually laying the cable. We use five conductors at a time (one neutral, three 120v hots leads, and a ground,) so it’s a big bundle. Each cable weighs a little over a pound per foot, and there are five bundled together. So a 150’ coil can easily weigh 750-800 pounds.
16 AWG – 1.3 mm^2
14 AWG – 2 mm^2
12 AWG – 3.3 mm^2
10 AWG – 5.2 mm^2
For us from the civilised part of the world ;-)
However, as in Europe we have 230 V system, approximately half the cross section, as stated in the table above, is sufficient.
Edit: This is how the above text should be displayed:
What is the metric unit for cables?
for cross-sectional area? mm^2^.
Is it just me or is anyone else perturbed that the cable sizes in this infographic are all the same gauge?
Do you just mean the art showing them as the same size? Because that's common in a lot of infovraphics to not be to scale if they are clearly labeled
the cable sizes in this infographic are all the same gauge?
They’re not. They are clearly marked as different gauges, except the left most two which have different plug types… one is two prong, the other is three prong.
a 50ft 12 gauge extension cord is about $40
$40USD would be $58CAD.
A 50-ft 12-gauge extension cord costs $112+ CAD anywhere in Canada. A 100-ft is $200+ CAD. Like… fffffuuuuuck.
The longer the distance, the larger the diameter of the wire you need, due to resistance/heat.
Typically, extension cords are going to be manufactured with the thinnest wire they can get away with based on the safety requirements, in order to save on materials cost.
So plugging 2 short cords together might cover the same distance as 1 longer cord, but the longer cord will use thicker wire to maintain the proper margin of safety.
On a scale from "smoking 20 packs of cigarettes a day" to "stubbing your toe on a really heavy piece of furniture", how dangerous would you subjectively rate daisy chaining extension cords
As dangerous as one extension cord of their combined length. Don't forget to verify that every cord rating is above load rating. I recommend to use at least same rating as circuit breaker or get extension cord with circuit breaker built in and never decrease rating down the line without circuit breaker before it, so even if you somehow overload it, there will be protection from it.
AND NEVER COIL OR THERMALY INSULATE! Cords rely on convection for heat dissipation, and spooling and insulating reduces it, thus increasing electrical insulator temperature until it melts and spontaneously combusts. This applies to extension cords in general.
Because this is the Internet, I'll be pedantic and say the interface where each cord plugs into the next probably adds some resistance as well.
So, 50 cords 1 ft each plugged into each other would have a higher resistance than the same wire at a single 50ft length.
I doubt it really matters in the practical terms of your answer and the question being asked though.
*insert technically correct*
Related thing about extension cable reels that many don't know is that even if you need like 3 meters of cable you should still unspool the entire thing as otherwise it's acting as a coil and creating ~~resistance~~ heat. Most cable reels have different ratings marked on them for when they are spooled / unspooled. This is especially true when the device you're powering takes >1000 watts
Many years ago, my mother used the electric lawn mower without unspooling all the wire. When it finally shorted, all the plastic wire insulation was in the process of turning into a melty plastic soup. A Lesson Was Learned.
The reason isn't resistance - it's that the coiled wire makes an electromagnet that stores energy in the magnetic field. The alternating current in the mains switches 50 or 60 times a second. In each cycle the magnetic field is created, destroyed then recreated in the opposite direction, then destroyed. This dumps a lot of energy (and therefore heat) into the coil.
The coil wouldn't make a significant magnetic field because the cable has two wires with opposite current flow in close proximity
But when the cable is coiled, its ability to dissipate heat is less, so normal resistive heating can create higher temperatures
Inductance is not the reason here
Meanwhile landlords: "one 50 year old outlet should be enough for two bedrooms right?*
This, along with hotels that hide their only power point behind the bed but have 50 bloody phone jacks, are my pet peeves. But it kinda makes sense when you consider they were mostly built before the days of having a ton of devices in the bedroom. A lamp and alarm clock, maybe a TV if you're well off, would've been perfectly fine for a lot of people
There are two things going on here.
The first is that yes, more connections causes more opportunities for the plugs to slip. So you can get short circuits or even arcing that can start a fire.
The second is that the wire in the cord has a certain rating on it. Many of those cords do not use 12 (20 amp) or 14 (15 amp) gauge wire; so, they're not rated for the full capacity of the wire in the wall. The breakers are sized to protect the wires in the wall, they don't know anything about the things plugged into them. So what can happen is you plug too much into the extension cord (particularly if it's a power strip) and the load on the extension cord is not enough to trip the breaker (because the walls are fine) but it's enough to overload the extension cord wire. In other words, the extension cord can start getting so hot it melts and possibly arcs up as the insulation fails.
You can have a fire from overloading a single power strip in just the same way. However, the more you chain together, the more likely you are to overload the power strip.
Ideally, you just think about what you're doing... But historically the easy answer is just to tell people not to chain things.
In short it's not about the distance, it's about the insulation and quality of the wire itself along with the number of connections.
