Linsensuppe

joined 1 year ago
[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 18 points 2 weeks ago

You could dig a hole to the other side and wait till all the water has drained.

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 7 points 1 month ago

Did that in school during CS once. Our teacher was not amused…

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 11 points 1 month ago

Fishüberspezi?

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Hab zwar kein Psychiater oder ADHS, aber ich kann bestätigen, dass FreiRUD absolut süchtig macht.

Ich hab dutzende angefangene Modelle von Ottomotoren, Flugzeugturbinen o.ä. die wahrscheinlich niemals bei meinem 3d Drucker ankommen werden.

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 1 points 1 month ago

I did both axis every time, not following any specific pattern.

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

I did both of the images with ISO 1600, 30 sec. exposure and F7.1. My camera and lens are able to go to ISO 25000 and F4.9 at the focal length. For the first image I did 50 calibration frames of each darks, biases and flats, and for the second image 30 of each

I've had success with way worse settings. This was taken with ISO 6400 and F6.4: https://lemmy.world/post/25110033 Could it be the difference in exposure? Maybe ~1000 images at 5s is better than just 300 at 30s?

15
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/astrophotography@lemmy.world
 

I recently took some pictures of Andromeda with a SA-GTI and a lumix g85 with the lumix 100-300mm, but the noise of the final image is really bad. Here is the first picture taken with a total of 2.5 hours (315*30s):

With this noise, I thought it was waking noise due to the almost perfect polar alignment. Since I don't have a dedicated computer and autoguider to dither, I just did it manually by moving the axis of the mount a bit to move the object on the sensor every half hour. For reference, the object stayed within the center cell of the grid of thirds, so I'd say I moved it a few hundred pixels every time in different directions. Here is the result (293*30s):

(Both pictures are processed in siril with green noise removed at the end) The noise stripes are smaller, but there is still a lot of noise in my opinion. It this due to the sort total exposure, or might it be walking noise? How can I reduce the noise without buying new equipment?

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 6 points 2 months ago

Ausversehen den Hellmodus angeschaltet

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 2 points 2 months ago

Wait what? What are these for then, if you cant measure angles or draw parallels? Just being able to draw 45 and 90 degree angles?

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 35 points 2 months ago

Its gotta be somewhere…

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 32 points 2 months ago (3 children)

So its was boy! Does that mean little boy is now a big brother?

[–] Linsensuppe@feddit.org 2 points 2 months ago

Bei den Wochentagen liegst du überraschenderweise gar nicht so falsch. Donnerstag ist aber dunkelblau.

34
ich 🔴❗️iel (feddit.org)
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/ich_iel@feddit.org
 

Jetzt das ganze mit Wörtern in der Grundschule…

Nomen sind rot

Verben sind blau

Adjektive sind grün

Ich suche auch streit

 

June 2025 in Germany

Technical Details:

Lumix G85 + Lumix 100-300 f/4-f/5.6 @180mm

  • Shutter: 1/640s
  • Aperture: f/5.6
  • ISO: 5000
 

First image with my new Star adventurer GTI tracker

Image of the Monkeyhead nebula I took last night.

Equipment:

  • Lumix G85
  • Lumix 100-300 f4-f5.6
  • Sky watcher Star adventurer GTI Image:

~ 1.95 hours of exposure

  • 100mm zoom (200mm ff. eq.)
  • 30 sec, f/5, 1600 ISO
  • 233 Lights
  • 50 Biases, Darks, Flats

Stacked and using Siril with Starnet++

With the new mount Im seeing a lot less walking noise compared to the old one (Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials) and its a hole lot easier to get setup because of the easy polar alignment and goto.

Can anyone explain to me the horizontal stripe of noise at the top of the image? Its only red/yellowish noise and only there. Part of it might still be nebula, but especially to the left is a lot of noise. There are more stripes like this all over the image when bumping up the contrast and saturation. Some of them are more green and blue and some like this.

 

Image of the Monkeyhead nebula I took last night.

Equipment:

  • Lumix G85
  • Lumix 100-300 f4-f5.6
  • Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials

Image:

  • 5 sec, f/5.6, 6400 ISO
  • 1634 Lights
  • 50 Biases, Darks, Flats

Stacked using Siril and edited in GIMP

9
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/astrophotography@lemmy.world
 

I took a few pictures of the most common objects and am using a Lumix G85 with a 100-300 (200-600mm eq.) lens. That is around 2.2lbs/1kg (Yes, that is a micro four thirds sensor) together with a Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials. It is a very cheap mount which you have to tention manually and it only runs for 1h at a time, polar alignment is hard due to the cheap "straw" you have to look through.

I really like this hobby and want to upgrade to a newer mount and the Sky-watcher Star Adventurer GTi looks really good for the price. However, I am worried about it's max payload of just 11lbs/5kg. For me it is more than enough, but I want to know if it will be enough along the way if I upgrade to heavier camera or even a dedicated one with a proper telescope.

Can someone tell me about the Sky-watcher with a heavier load or pro-level gear on a different mount and how heavy it is and if you think this mount will be enouh for it.

0
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/buyeuropean@feddit.uk
 

I like their services and have brought a few things, but their prices are 3-5x the price (sometimes more) of no-name chinese ones. I don't know where the parts of AZ-Delivery are produces, but its probably china too, but is this price right in your opinion. But even if they are more expensive than others on amazon for example, I don't want to support the evil bald man

Edit: Here's the English site: https://www.az-delivery.de/en

 

How would or do you backup your home server? I don't have enough physical storage (for now) at home to store some backups, so I want to upload it to the cloud. Of course I want the backup to be encrypted, but I don't want to enter the password every time by server does a backup. I am currently using borg on my PC and do it manually. How do I create a encrypted backup without entering the key manually? Do I hardcode it somewhere? Don't really like that. I am also fine with trying other backup software.

36
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/astrophotography@lemmy.world
 

My second (and first successful) try of the orion nebula. Any advice for editing out the noise and these stripes? What are these?

Camera: Panasonic Lumix G85 Lens: H-FSA100300 (100-300mm f4-5.6) Settings: f6.4, ISO 6400, 5"

1020 pics at 5s each + calibration frames

Total exposure: 85 minutes / 1.4 hours

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submitted 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world
 

I want to host a Vaultwarden (or Bitwarden if necessary) instance, but it keeps asking for a domain and a SSL certificate. I dont own a domain and dont want to enable port forwarding on my router to expose it to the outside.

Is it possible to host a instance only internally and access it via the IP or a domain set on my local DNS? How about SSL is it possible and/or necessary?

18
OpenAstroTracker (feddit.org)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Linsensuppe@feddit.org to c/astrophotography@lemmy.world
 

I recently discovered the Open Astro Tracker by OpenAstroTech. Does anyone have experience with it and can recommend it? I don't want to spend time and money for a product that maybe won't work, but I really like the idea of a self build tracker. I also like that it can be upgraded later by adding things like a autoguider

Because my camera is only ~1kg (2.2lbs) the small model is enough and I don't plan on upgrading anytime soon. If I can be sure it will work, its fine if it takes some time to print and assemble.

Also, can someone make a rough estimation of the price? On the website it is around 250€ for a complete kit, but I have a 3d printer and don't need the autoguider right now. For me that seems a little expensive for mostly 3d printed parts.

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