So they chose to go the John Deere way.
this post was submitted on 22 Nov 2025
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They did but they are actually far worse. John Deere is into some DRM bullshit but Kia / Hyundai dealerships have the worst record for recommending things you don't actually need and then over charging you.
Fucking Kia Bastards. Took my 23 Forte GT to the dealership because driver side was blowing hot air when ac was on. Thought the blend door broke it barely had 29k miles at the time. Second thought the freon had a leak. Got the warranty. They told me it would only apply if they "found" a leak. After 5 hours. They didnt find a leak had to pay $500 for diagnostics. The mechanic said it was extremely low on freon. Which would resonate with a LEAK. But since they didnt "find" it the warranty didnt apply. Never went back and have been fixing my car myself. Fuck Kia dealerships and mechanics. All they did was recharge the system told me to come back after 500 miles because they added a dye. Told the rep, "Fuck you guys, I'm never coming back."
What a pile of assholes! They all sound like conmen.
Looooool even worse for you. The dye is already added from the factory. What fucking a fuckin joke
The cars are decent value for money but the dealerships are an absolute scam
Ah good ol' fake Honda
Me and my 11 year old just changed the rear shocks on my car, 18mm socket and box wrench, 45 minutes of time. I'll never buy a vehicle with these types of paywalls.
Doing some major repairs to my 25 year old vehicle today also. New shit is junk.
I've been wondering about the costs of actually having a car custom built. I obviously have neither the know-how nor the place to build my own car, but are there some garages where you can just order the parts and have others assemble it for you? I know it would be expensive as fuck, but having a road-safe, road-legal car with no on-board computer (except maybe a rear view camera... something that doesn't need connectivity) would be worth it. They might need a vehicle Black Box, but many of those only hold data for the last few seconds only in the event of a collision or accident and do not keep geolocation or personal driving data.
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Welcome to the future, you will own nothing and be happy about it.
They lock the parking brake behind a paywall on the scanner, so you have to pay a subscription fee. Chrysler has the parking brake service mode on the vehicle for users. VAG, BMW, Nissan, Toyota, GM etc all do it. It just make servicing more expensive for consumers, because the cost all gets passed down.
Why is the parking brake involved with the computer at all....
It's an electronic parking brake. Those are common now because a small switch takes up less interior space than a lever for a cable-actuated parking brake, and the computer can disengage the parking brake if it detects that the driver is attempting to drive with it activated. The computer is involved in brake pad replacement to tell the parking brake motor to open to its widest position to accept new pads, and calibrate itself to their thickness.
This requires a special adapter and software subscription rather than a button on the infotainment screen because Hyundai is engaging in rent-seeking and perhaps trying to direct business to its dealers.
Guess I'll add this to the list of reasons I'm keeping my current car until it falls apart.
So if your brakes go out and you try to use the parking brake for a slow stop it won't do anything anymore?
If you lose your brakes you can still pull the switch and it'll apply the e-brake. If you are on the highway and don't want to slam it on, you can turn on your hazards and coast to a safe place to apply it.
Correct, though the car in question here is electric and will almost certainly use the motors to slow the car to reuse that energy. The motors should be able to stop the car even if the hydraulic brakes fail, and probably more effectively than a mechanical parking brake.
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It is and it isn't. To use the onboard control to actuate the parking brake, yes, you have to use the paywalled software. But it's a simple motor. Positive and negative. If you disconnect the connector at the parking brake and use fused jumper leads to a 12v battery, you can cause the actuator to go forward or backwards. Make sure the parking brake isn't applied before doing anything, disconnect the cars battery, disconnect the p brake connector, jump the terminals once you figure out which polarity causes the retraction. Manually compress the caliper piston, replace the pads (and hopefully the rotors too). Pump the brake pedal as you would normally once everything is replaced, reconnect everything, and you're good to go. in my experience this doesn't work on ford but there's a service procedure that doesn't use a scanner to force the park brake into service mode. There's always a way around dumb stuff like this
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it's a matter if time until they make Linux for cars.
I guess that's one way to make people give up cars in favor of public transportation.
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TL;DW; he bypasses the whole 2500 dollar software thing by using common sense that the caliper only has two wires in it so you just need to feed a positive and negative power line to it from a low voltage power source and it will extend or retract the electric caliper as needed.
While I agree with you that there’s an easy fix, it wouldn’t cost them anything to make holding the handbrake release switch enter maintenance mode.
Also, wait until they release a face lift with new some arbitrary signal to control it.
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Yeah we definitely need open source vehicles/transportation initiatives for everything: trains, trams, hsr, cars, etc
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