this post was submitted on 30 Oct 2025
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I recently acquired an old electro-cautery unit. Think it is from 1910s or 1920s. Has a big old multi tapped torodial transformer running to a couple of connectors/poles. It is by F. Geiger of Philadelphia. Wood case is labeled 110V. 60 CY. and 4V. 100A. Seriously old school cool and a little horrifying.

Insulation on power cord was brittle as was insulation from secondary to pole. Both have been replaced. I used crimp connections on the primary wires (didn't measure gauge but it's on the order of 20 AWG). I was in a hurry to test and will eventually solder it properly. I added a switch to the new power cord.

It works with output voltage varying from 0.1V to 4V. It gets a woodburning tip glowing orange at setting 4 (2 volts or so). Should make a great woodburner and be useful if I ever need to interrogate someone.

There isn't really a way to ground it and the screw on the control knob is electrically connected to the secondary. I have a gfci adapter that I could plug it into. Basically, if the transformer shorts, 110V could be exposed on the face.

There are two holes on the face plate, the power cord is running through the largest and the other is empty. It may have had a foot pedal.

I want to add a RGB indicator light for voltage level using the small hole. It's a little tricky to tell when the tap is lined up and you're getting voltage. A green - yellow -red fade and maybe white for NC. I have a spare Arduino Nano clone, but am not sure what circuit to rectify the AC with for the ADC. Maybe an Op amp follower? Power supply would be a 110-5v usb charger board. I would prefer to avoid a dual rail supply or higher than 5v.

Thoughts and suggestions appreciated!

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[–] flango@lemmy.eco.br 5 points 1 week ago

That's cool

[–] Scafir@discuss.tchncs.de 5 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Thank you for the pics and explanations! Seeing such big power transformer in a wooden box terrifies me, probably more than it should.

For the ADC, I'm not too sure what you could use. The easy way would be to use ZMPT101B, and live with the fact that you would be using 1% of its range (you would need to check its resolution). Maybe you could also try to rectify it using an ideal diode IC.

[–] Machinist@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

I looked at the ZMPT101B, not sure if it will work at that low a voltage.

Did some quick looking at the ideal diode modules available on Amazon, but they were just schottky drop or so. Sparkfun had one that might work. Ideal diode is definitely the right sort of thing, just have to find one ideal enough. If I can find the right one, it should work.

I've been looking at precision rectifier op amp circuits. Even half wave gets me what I need.

Edit: This should work, may have to change some resistor values.

[–] cmnybo@discuss.tchncs.de 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

If you want to ground it and don't require a floating output, you could connect ground to one end of the secondary.

[–] Machinist@lemmy.world 5 points 1 week ago (1 children)

That would be modern practice, wouldn't it? It won't affect operation at all and should be safer. Ground wire wasn't really a thing when this was made.

I'll be doing this.

[–] shalafi@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago

Thanks to both of you! Wasn't sure why adding a ground would be an issue, wasn't sure the right way to do it.