hereiamagain

joined 3 weeks ago

That's good to know thanks!

Good to know, I'll have to play with it.

Ah that makes sense haha

Hmmm, that doesn't sound very encouraging haha. Well I'm gonna try PEI anyway, see if I can keep it flat enough.

That's encouraging!

I thought too cold caused warping, does too warm cause it as well?

Now I know this to be true

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 4 points 3 days ago (2 children)

I put the whole apparatus in the fridge for a few hours, hoping it would just pop off.

The edges came up clean, but the very middle was very unhappy. I had some lifting on the corners so I think there was a draft and the plate wasn't warming equally. Hot spot in the middle trying to keep up maybe? IDK.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 days ago (2 children)

This is a pretty deep hole, I don't think tape will cut it.

But I've been printing little things on the front portion 🤷‍♂️

I do this too, normally it works a treat.

Somehow I missed all the warning signs and discussion on the subject. I'll never forget.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Can't be much worse than a big hunk of glass?

 

I loved this glass bed. After so much time trying to get anything to stick to the stock ender 3 bed, this glass bed has things sticking almost TOO well.

It was fine enough for PLA, but I've been playing with PETG lately and it sticks a little harder.

Well today I printed the entire bed flat for a little hiking table I'm experimenting with.. and this happened when I tried to get it off...

Suggestions for replacement? Should I go glass again? I don't have bltouch so I like how flat glass is, set it and forget it. But I've seen those magnetic plates that allow for super easy removal but just flexing the plate, but this bed is aluminum I think. Plus that seems similar to the stock ender 3 plate that I despise.

 

I made this test block to test the fit on some holes (my printer isn't calibrated), when I noticed the problem. The cone on the side was a sanity check for this problem.

I tried googling but couldn't come up with this same problem.

Edit: I did just figure out a way, I made them a union group, which applied the cuts immediately, and they stayed when exported. I’ve never had to do that before. Though admittedly that's probably the right way, I normally use fusion360. Something is definitely weird though. It should just work without doing that. And in fact it did a few days ago on a different project file.

 

The screen swap was easy peasy, the hardest part was getting the old screen out. Mine was already broken, and I wasn't keeping the front plastic, so I didn't have to worry about being too careful, except around the top edge where the mics and ambient light sensor are.

The case swap was a bear, took forever. I'm fairly handy, but the whole process took almost 4 hours. My buddy was doing his in tandem with me and he was over 5 hours, and that's with me lending a hand towards the end.

It looks great, in my opinion, and I'd do it again, I'd just start earlier in the day 😬

As far as the OLED goes, so far it looks good. The stock brightness slider isn't working, it must be a software thing? I have had zero time to look into it. I haven't even played a single game on it since doing the swap. I'll report back when I have time to give it a fair shake.

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