LIDAR sucks, accuracy wise. If you want accuracy, and hate yourself, then you need an iPhone XR/XS because that was the generation with the most accurate FaceID (for whatever reason). Or go photogrammetry, the LIDAR can help but isn’t the main thing there… this is both free and great. With a Mac you can get the data processed faster, or it can be done (paid) via cloud, or with less accuracy and a bit of patience, on device. It’s not going to be a professional solution, but depending on the task it works and chances are the hardware is already there :)
Stampela
joined 2 years ago
My brother had a moment like that as a kid. He had a phone and put it in a locker when he went to gym (kids stuff, you know. Get them active, get them tired) and… the locker wasn’t locked. Plus having the pin enabled was annoying so he didn’t have that either. Yep. He learned that lesson…
With access to a 3d printer one could print something like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5430213/ (that I did print and works fine) or any other similar design.
Seconded. Between American Truck Simulator and Snowrunner I went through… I think Star Trek Voyager, Charmed and unavoidably something else too. Both games run well on the Deck (ATS has a Linux version: pick the Windows one, it’s far more optimized)
Edit: and Forza Horizon! Can’t forget that.
Some games don’t really use it in a meaningful way, others make it a key component of gameplay. Sometimes gimmicky, obviously. For example I tried Mario Galaxy on the Deck, there’s a puzzle that requires finding the right spot with the HD rumble. The Deck has the same kind of haptics, but it didn’t translate at all into something meaningful, so that one puzzle cannot be solved. Old school rumble is ok and nice, but modern devices (Steam Deck, Switch, PS5, something like last 10 years of iPhones, obviously the Steam Controller) have proper haptics and can really do weird things. Click on the trackpad of your Deck when it’s off. The click is faked with haptics, so there’s none when it’s off! Main problem is that both Microsoft and Nintendo are strikingly dumb, so Microsoft is still clinging to 30 year old tech with the classic rumble, and Nintendo has HD Rumble only on the real Switch… so developers can’t expect everything to have proper haptics, and fall back to rumble.
The floor is a carpet, and the shoes is harder to tell but might be a similar situation? Velvet maybe?
I have a Sovol SV07 Plus, that is the newer version of the SV06 Plus… or in other words, the mechanically identical, but larger, SV06. It’s easy to assemble, it’s bigger than the A1 Mini. Now, you don’t know how big your printer needs to be, until you find out that it’s too small! I found that the 22cm square offered by my old Ender 3 was enough for most things, but it wasn’t enough for everything. I also had a 12cm square with a Monoprice Select Mini Plus V2(the name was the biggest thing lol) and that was quick to become restrictive. Would I suggest the A1 Mini, that has halfway between the two? I don’t know. But at the same time it comes pre assembled (it might not be a concern for you) and easy to use. In short I would recommend the SV07 as that’s the small and less expensive version of what I have, but the SV06 should be mechanically identical so that gives me hope it’ll perform equally well. The downsides are a less than stellar control unit (the hardware inside the touchscreen), a weird as fuck cooling fan that is super loud, and instructions that trick you into believing that the packets of screws are numbered in a meaningful way. Don’t. That said it prints everything with ease, it’s really fast and that fan might be loud, but at the same time works wonders. I love it. Oh! Also. Once I ever so slightly fucked up the Z offset, making it scrape quite thoroughly the build surface: nothing got damaged, build surface included!
Not much. On one hand, I don’t want to get too used to something that isn’t available anywhere else (controllers with back buttons are usually just able to be used as double for the face ones) and on the other hand… my main use is, as I found out, better to be avoided on the Deck. American Truck Simulator. Right now I don’t remember what I set them to, but I certainly have some cruise control options there. But the problem is that, if I’m tired at all, using the Deck if I end up doing a delivery at night, I fall asleep lmao. Learned that I am in fact not capable of shrugging off drowsiness while driving, glad I found out with a game…
Lately, not really. But I’m in a weird mood: I mostly play on the PS5 (the same thing I’ve been playing for most of the decade), stream an even older game with GeForce Now on my Mac (instead of playing far more recent stuff that has a Mac version), my gaming pc sits idle, and on the Deck obviously I play Suicide Squad: Kill the Justice League when I feel like it.
Yeah, weird mood.
The wireless Reolinks are not great. Like, nothing against the camera itself, however, the WiFi antenna must be smaller than the one in my watch. The range is truly abysmal.
Tapo ones are perfectly fine, good quality all around, but it’s important to specify that I have experience with external, solar powered Reolinks and indoor Tapo, so it’s a bit of a different category.
This isn’t what you asked specifically, but it’s related enough… have a look into https://apps.apple.com/it/app/draw-things-ai-generation/id6444050820?l=en-GB as it’s free, ad free, free from tracking and really well optimized. With that I can run Schnell on my iPhone 13 Pro!