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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/rcecap on 2025-08-06 14:43:00+00:00.
For an experience that is utterly different from what you'll find on the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka itinerary, consider allocating 2-3 nights to visit Kiso Valley, a perfect blend of natural beauty and culture/history, where you can visit Atera Valley and hike the Nakasendo Trail. You can make a transfer in Nagoya (on the Shinkansen line between Tokyo and Kyoto) to make your way up to Kiso Valley.
Two highlights in Kiso Valley:
Atera Valley is a stunning mountain stream with otherworldly turquoise waters that the Japanese call “Atera Blue.” We just spent an incredible day exploring natural swimming holes surrounded by lush forest and dramatic mountain scenery in the heart of central Japan. In the fall, there is amazing fall foliage.
Another highlight is the classic hike along the Nakasendo Trail from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku, two super-scenic Edo-era post towns. The 2-3 hour hike between these towns takes you through a beautiful, forested route with waterfalls.
We based ourselves in Nakatsugawa, a small town in the Kiso Valley just 50 minutes by limited express train from Nagoya. Nakatsugawa is a good choice as a base, as it is close to both Atera Valley and Magome-juku, and it has a good selection of accommodations and restaurants. The town is compact so everything is within walking distance.
For Atera Valley, we took a 30-minute local train from to Nojiri Station, then walked about 15–20 minutes to the mouth of Atera Valley. You spend the day on a scenic walk along a beautiful well-kept road that follows the rushing water upstream, passing pool after pool where you can swim, some of which are deep enough to jump into from rocks 5–13+ feet high. It’s an incredibly peaceful and relaxing day filled with refreshing swims, rushing water and scenic views.
Start your day with swimsuit under your clothes and bring water shoes or sandals (e.g. Tevas). Once there, you can rent e-bikes from a nearby parking lot, but we opted to walk instead. There is also a van that goes to/from nearby parking lots up the road.
We had two of our best dinners of our trip in Nakatsugawa, including Waraidokoro Airo (笑処 あいろ), an obanzai place run by two smiling ladies, and Shabu Shabu Aoyagi (志ゃぶしゃぶ 青柳), a counter-only place run by an elderly couple. Both are limited capacity restaurants, so be sure to make a reservation once you get to Nakatsugawa (just stop by before dinner service starts or make a reservation for the next night).
Be sure to bring cash, as many places in the Kiso Valley don't accept credit cards and local train stations don’t take Suica/IC cards.