this post was submitted on 01 Jul 2025
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best print farm 3d-printer for PETG? (lemmy.ml)
submitted 2 weeks ago by EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
15 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

Looking to get another printer that shall be printfarm compatible. What do I mean?

  • reliable
  • easy to service
  • excellent replacement part availability
  • affordable
  • affordable replacement parts
  • AMS (switching spools once it runs out & multi-color within a flat layer [not vertical/between layers])

Normally I would just buy another A1 mini (180€ without AMS) or P1S (650€ with AMS) but with recent issues with the printer & support quality & them banking hard on proprietary with Support staff who don't know what their error messages mean make me question if those are still the best option or if some other company meanwhile took the crown.

other spec:

  • approx. 256x256mm
  • exclusively used with PETG-filament
  • enclosed (keeping dust out)
  • network connected. ideally with a web service to use it remotely
  • in stock (this sadly disqualifies the Elegoo Centauri Carbon which seems to be the goto at the moment).
all 21 comments
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[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Prusa Core One with MMU or Qidi Plus 4 and the Qidi Box. The Qidi Box is at the pre-sale point now. They have been taking things slow with their AMS unit. Either printer is affordable and in the size range you want. Both are corexy, Qidi run Klipper and Prusa runs Marlin firmware. Both brands have heated enclosures to make printing fussier filaments easier. And PETG definitely benefits from that.

If I was starting over and wanted a larger printer, it would be a coin flip choice between those 2 printers.

[–] MysteriousSophon21@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago

My Qidi Plus 4 has been absolutley crushing PETG prints - the heated chamber makes a huge difference for layer adhesion and you can check out some power stations on gearscouts.com if you need backup power for longer prints during outages.

[–] akincisor@sh.itjust.works 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I have a k1c and have pretty much printed petg exclusively. Works fine. I know creality has an amazing clone... haven't used that.

[–] dorkage@lemmy.ca 1 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

I had a K1 Max I got directly from Creality in October.

It would print ASA okay, but PETG and PLA failed like 75% of the time.

Switched to a Sovol SV08 with a cartographer and I can't remember having a failed print since. I print almost exclusively in PETG now.

[–] akincisor@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

In what way did they fail?

[–] dorkage@lemmy.ca 1 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Terrible bed adhesive. Cleaned the bed multiple times. Tried with and without glue sticks. It had over 2mm of deviation.

Prints would always warp on the right side where the aux fan was blowing on them.

[–] akincisor@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 weeks ago

I guess I'm lucky... My bed has <0.6mm deviation. I've had it for a couple of months printing almost every day and my biggest issue is an occasional layer shift.

[–] Antti@sopuli.xyz 2 points 2 weeks ago

I would give vote for Prusa Core one. Not the cheapest but great support and very reliable work horse. Currently only option is MMU3 but they have announced that they are working new solution

[–] Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I have an Anycubic S1 combo. Enclosed, AMS, networked, hackable (Rinkhals kliipper) . 700 hours on it and it's been fine. Layer 1 isn't absolutely perfect across the entire bed but as long as you aren't mass printing coasters with layer 1 designs, you won't notice. It's never been enough of an issue for me to bother tweaking the defaults.

But if this for a business, you should probably cave and get a P1S.