Japan Trips & Travel Tips

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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/ryu-kishi on 2024-10-22 23:20:08+00:00.

Japan Solo Trip Report - 2 Weeks - Kansai-Hiroshima-Izu-Kanto - Oct 4-Oct 18

This was supposed to be a 2-person trip, but circumstances made this a solo adventure. It has been 20 years since I lived in Japan. Packed light, 7 days of clothes for 14 days of travel. All my hotels were already booked by about a month out except for my very last 2 nights in Tokyo. Budget varied, but definitely mid-high at points. Being solo meant being utterly flexible in everyway, with what I did and saw, meandering at my leisure, and eating/drinking when I wanted (if there was a wine pairing I did it). Utilized the JR Kansai/Hiroshima area 5-day pass. I'm also Japanese-American with some fluency (emphasis on some), so my experience is that weird sense of foreign/national. Lots of text ahead. Excuse any formatting, its all rather stream of thought.

LAX-KIX arrival about 6pm. KIX to trainline was a bit chaotic. This is probably the best time to hit the ticket office since I didn't have cash yet and wasn't sure about what ATM was what (first one also declined my debit card). After customs is where I picked up my WIFI. Mostly used Google Maps for directions, because it was easier for me to understand and it told me times/train platforms with enough accuracy. Overall, my phone/WIFI/battery lasted through the day until I could get charged. Should have brought an extra cord, since one of mine was broken (or buy one!)

• Oct 4-Oct 7 - Osaka, The Lively Osaka Honmachi. Decently priced accommodations. Free beer/Takoyaki Waffles on Fri-Sat night. Sorta more adult vibe, but families there too. Pretty clean modern rooms. Bar had a weird odor (maybe from cleaning?) but I went to the rooftop. Near a metro stop, though honestly, I walked almost EVERYWHERE once I realized how close things were and how much time I had.
• Oct 5 - Osaka exploration. I was waking up around 5am almost every day due to jet lag. It's a different feel for a city that is otherwise so busy during the day and downright crowded at night. Wandered Dotombori during the morning. Lunch I think at the top of Daimaru, at a Teppanyaki. The department store and train station food courts are really something. They may not be the hidden gem treasures you'll find on the streets on Tabelog, but they are mostly above average food that hits the spot. Bought a Seiko because it was going to be that kind of trip. Decided to go to Osaka Castle, even though it wasn't on my original itinerary. The grounds were lovely, but inside was crowded as hell. Dinner at this brew-pub on beer recommendation from a friend who lives in Kyoto. People watched Dotombori at night. Whisky at Bar Agreable (random walk-in).
• Oct 6 - Nara day trip. Got there relatively early so it never felt too crowded. Kofuku-Ji was closed for renovation, but I was mostly there to see Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha (and bowing/screaming deer). I didn't buy any sembe, but witnessed plenty of others. Kasuga Taisha grounds were lovely and peaceful. Local sushi set lunch nearby. Back to Osaka to buy 2 pairs of jeans (Samurai and Momotaro). Samurai Jeans has a better grasp on English if thats a concern and a really cool store venue. Dinner was at a small Japanese steakhouse.
• Oct 7-8 - Hiroshima/Miyajima, Iwaso Ryokan. Moderate-High price. Really beautiful ryokan, windows open completely to let the sound of nature flow in. Opted for the Dinner/Breakfast set. Had my first ekiben for lunch. Wandered Hiroshima Peace Park, opted out of the museum as I had been there before, but for first-timers, I think it is worth it. Heavy somber atmosphere until I got on the private ferry that picks up near the park. Basically explored the island, ate some oysters and walked around Itsukushima at high tide and, on the recommendation of Charles Taproom up the street, went to Daishoin (highly recommended). Used the hotel onsen, think I had it to myself or maybe 1 other person. Wonderful dinner (wine pairing). Early morning, out by 6am to go back to the Shrine at low tide. Walked around a bit but did not make it up to Mt Misen.
• Oct 8-12 - Himeji/Kyoto, Solaria Kyoto Nishitetsu. Moderate priced hotel, modern, onsen, nicely located on the Kamo River. Opted out of meals. I really nitpicked this hotel compared to others, but in the end, its really splitting hairs on where you could stay.
• Oct 8 - Leaving Miyajima via the JR Ferry/Train to Hiroshima to Himeji. Himeji Castle was just as people have said, far less interior "stuff" than Osaka, but I found it more to my liking. It felt less crowded inside by far, with long interior rampart walkways free of most people and letting me appreciate the architecture more. I think I had a random street stall Kobe Skewer and ekiben before landing in Kyoto, I met up with my co-worker who works at the University now, for dinner at a local Chinese restaurant. Later showed her a local Jazz cafe, Jazz Spot Yamatoya. I quite drunkenly discovered this spot 20 years ago and was so glad it is still here.
• Oct 9 - Started my morning at Yasaka Shrine, which was a short walk from the hotel. Down through the area, including Ninenzaka/Sannenzaka to Kiyomizudera. Leaving Kiyo, I inadvertently walked through Otani Cemetary, which was a little surreal and I saw only 2 people the whole walk. I eventually walked (about an hour) to Fushimi Inari. I was sweating bullets by the time I climbed to the top, but it was an overall beautiful experience. Fushimi had started to get crowded, but I started before the vendor tents were setup and made it back ready for lunch at Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onadera. It's not really kaiten in the everyday sense, you order by touchscreen then using a lazer beam to determine distance, it goes on a straight track to your seat. Lots of market wandering. Peak Nishiki Market is a shit-show, shoulder to shoulder, barely room to eat if you get something. The rest was fine though, picked up a sukajan jacket, popped into the Kuoe watch store to browse. Dinner at a Yakiniku near Pontocho Alley. Now, Kyoto might be one of my favorite cities for a variety of reasons, but the following really made it special. Wandered into Bar Alchemist and ended up having drinks with the couple next to me. When you're traveling this big crazy world, it can create such unique old soul type connections when you can just strike up conversations with others. Together went to what might be my favorite bar on the planet in Kazubar. No signage, a floor above a coffee shop, with no menu, only candlelight. It really just set the mood for that part of my trip. We finished off with some Haaan! dumplings.
• Oct 10 - My obligatory trip to Kinkakuji. Now, I don't know if its tourists that cause a place to be busy, but I for sure know getting somewhere the same time as 5 busloads of elementary school kids sure as hell does. Blue hats from one school, yellow hats from another! This is not my peaceful moment of zen (that's the next place). Ryoanji is a short-ish walk from Kinkakuji and is a lovely example of a zen rock garden along with some other artwork. The one place I saw where visitors could just sit and appreciate the garden. And normally, this is where I would say I went to Arashiyama or some such on the west side, but I got in line for the wrong bus and at that point I was too stubborn to admit I was in the wrong line and just took it back to the city center for my first bowl of ramen. There was some good rest and some early Nintendo themed Christmas shopping before some katsu curry dinner. One of the omakase experiences I had next was at this gin/cocktail lab that could be considered liquid cuisine at Nokishita711. Serious, just look it up, it's hard to explain!
• Oct 11 - I finally went to Sanjusangendo, though it was originally on my itinerary for the 1st full day in Kyoto. So glad I made the trip as it was high on my list and my biggest regret is not being able to take any pictures (signs everywhere in the main hall). It was just so peaceful, reverent, and inspiring to see what was done there. I then had reservations to Kiyama, opting for the higher priced market course. It was one of the best meals I've ever had, though thankfully a fellow American sat next to me so I could really appreciate the meal with someone. Kyoto, and Japan as a whole, has such a plethora of fine dining, and this one really encapsulated Japanese cuisine in both its seasonal ingredients and technique. Bonus to this night, I saw my first Geisha/Meiko as I left my hotel to meet up with friends old & new. She eventually entered a taxi with 2 others already inside. Bucketlist checked! My dinner came at the bottom of a whisky glass, so that's how that night went.
• Oct 12 - I am finally leaving one of my favorite cities for my old "home". I'll continue this in a part II as I take the Shinkansen to Mishima in Shizuoka.