3DPrinting

16076 readers

166 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago

MODERATORS

j4k3@lemmy.world

andypiper@lemmy.world

henry_rowengartner@lemmy.world

GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee

Ender 3 V2 has gap on right side of bed, even with auto-level (lemmy.world)

submitted 4 days ago by spongebue@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

5 comments fedilink hide all child comments

In the past I've gotten around this by printing on the left side of the bed, but some things need the space so here I am.

I've got an Ender 3 V2 with some tasteful mods: OctoPrint, BLTouch, a magnetic flexible bed surface, and a few other things people are bound to do with an entry-level printer they got for $100 with a Micro Center coupon. One issue I'm having with it is that any printing done on the right side of the bed seems to have a pretty big gap. I have the G28 and G29 commands in to run the bed level, I try to get it leveled properly with the springs (with help of the bed visualizer plugin for OctoPrint) and no matter what I do, the nozzle drifts just a little farther from the bed on the right side, so the filament does not stick.

I'm open to more mods, but before I spend more time and money on this for what I think is the problem, does anyone actually have a good idea of what's wrong here?

Thanks much!

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments

[–] ShepherdPie@midwest.social 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

You would add this to your Start Gcode macro in klipper or your slicers Start Gcode section (depending on which method you use) after the G28:

BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html?h=bed+mesh#bed-mesh-gcodes

M420 S1 and/or G29 may or may not be recognized on your printer so I'd try the above line.

You might also consider changing the mesh command from G28 to what's listed in the docs there for BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html?h=bed+mesh#bed-mesh-gcodes

https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html?h=bed+mesh#adaptive-meshes

Gives example macro code, see comment chain from /u/strtshtr325: https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/1ay49x3/comment/krsi4b4/

Notes about what to add to your printer.cfg file: https://github.com/rootiest/zippy_guides/blob/main/guides/macros.md#adaptive-meshing-notes

Edit: crap I haven't had my coffee and just realized you aren't even using Klipper (I'm not sure where I got that idea from) so none of this will work 😅

I know that in klipper you need to load the mesh after performing it so you may look into OctoPrint's version of that and implement it.