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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/yamajunreisha on 2024-06-11 17:20:22+00:00.
edit: added photos!
Here’s my little contribution back to the community whose shared knowledge I have made use of for some time.
I took a 2.5 week trip to Japan at the end of May this year with the goal of completing the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. There were two distinct halves to this trip. The Nakahechi week long thru hike of the Kumano Kodo followed by a chill out week in Tokyo. I'll share my Tokyo report if there's interest.
For context, this is my 6th trip to Japan and 2nd solo one. I am a middle aged man from the United Kingdom with what I cosider average fitness.
Pre-trip notes
- Bookings were all made in January to get the best prices. For the Kumano Kodo, that’s the minimum lead time I would suggest because accommodation options are very limited in these remote villages. I met hikers that booked in April who had to shuttle back and forth between the larger towns to each day’s hiking start points on public buses because there was no accommodation left.
- I used the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau to book the entire itinerary of the hike and simply purchased train tickets direct from JR and pre/post hotels on Booking.com. I opted for accommodations that also provided all meals on the hike where possible (with lunch being a bento that you eat on your hike). Unlike in the big cities, combinis aren’t always round the corner in rural Japan and even when they are, aren’t always open when you want them to be! I also opted to have a daily luggage shuttle service so that I only had to carry the essentials each day.
- I prepared in the preceding months at home with hikes and walks (16km+ each time) with a laden pack. Having read about the different styles of climbs in Japan versus everywhere else, I also took to long sessions on stair climber machines at the local gym for 45 - 60 min stints (getting stared at for hogging them as a result).
- I took the cheapest open jaw option from London to Osaka flying Air China transiting via Shanghai outbound and Tokyo-Beijing inbound. This was ~£250 cheaper than a direct flight but added a lot more stress and discomfort. Online check-in was not available (perhaps because my ticket was not purchased directly from Air China) plus their website is horrendously broken at the best of times. Inflight entertainment was limited and transiting in Chinese airports was more laborious than any of my previous transit experiences in the US or Europe. Picky eaters beware as meal options always had meat in them so prebook yours. That said, the ground and onboard service staff were excellent at all times.
- I would never have considered this option if European airlines were permitted to fly over Russia (and thus have a shorter flight time and cost). I woudl not take this option again unless the savings are even greater.
- With the savings, I added in a 2 day buffer in Osaka to get over jetlag and any other unexpected delays, and that turned out to be the right decision as we shall see.
Day 1 - Osaka
Upon arriving at KIX, I was notified by the ground staff that my checked bag with all my hiking equipment did not make it to Japan as it was flagged as a “problem” in Shanghai. This despite signing a waiver in Shanghai that my bags can be inspected without my presence and it had a TSA approved combo lock. I had to have a PIR form completed and provide the combination lock number and hope it arrived in time for the start of my hike.
Kansai Airport has a reputation of having never lost a passenger’s bag in it’s entire history and they weren’t about to break that record on my account so I did eventually get it back on the eve of my hike 2 days later. But by that time, I have already wasted half a day scouting for replacement clothes and gear instead of sightseeing!
Forms filled, I set up base in Namba at WBF Motomachi. Fantastic price with free breakfast and great location. Just a street away from the now social media famous Yasaka Jinja and 5-10 mins walk from the transport and shopping hub of Namba. The free breakfast wasn’t great but I’d happily stay there again for that price point.
Had japanese “italian” at Spaghetti no Pancho and loved it. Then turned down the wrong street lined on both sides by maid cafe girls soliciting customers (just me at that time) in the dark. Creeped me out!
Day 2 - Osaka
Went to the nearest koban and filed a police report as required by my insurer. Staffed by two officers, one older and one younger officer. The older man spoke no english at all but the younger gentleman could to a certain extent. Ultimately, google translate was the life saver here.
I had to provide an itemised list of items in my lost suitcase, where and when it was lost and where I was staying at and they typed up a report all in Japanese, had me sign it and then issued a receipt with a case number and said they’ll be in touch with the hotel if there’s any news. All in, it took me about 40 minutes. An interesting experience and an official case receipt as a souvenir.
Bought a 1-day metro pass and visited the Museum of Oriental Ceramics (beautiful!), lunched at Onigiri Gorichan (seasonal items were great), Osaka Museum of Housing and Living + special exhibition gallery. I think kids would really enjoy this small little hands-on museum. I certainly did. Then to Shinseikai (very touristy) and then a Mega Donki (very touristy and somewhat dodgy feeling neighbourhood with lots of pachinko parlours)
Bumped into a reality TV or youtuber crew filming some sort of Amazing Race like show on the metro. Raised a few eyebrows when they held up the train for all their team members to get on board and then proceeded to speak loudly and film in the carriage. Overtourism comes in many forms!
Day 3 - Osaka / Kii-Tanabe
Checked out and made a final phone call to KIX to check on the status of my lost bag and they confirmed that they have it and it will meet me when I arrive at my next accommodation in Tanabe. Relieved, I did not follow through with the more expensive purchases and kept what I’ve purchased unopened with a plan of returning them when I returned to Osaka (spoiler alert: they did not accept my returns).
Had a late breakfast in a kissaten, walked around Abeno Harukas and Tennoji park, then found a cheapo bento in the basement supermarket of Tennoji station, hopped onto the Kuroshio to Kii Tanabe. Got a green car upgrade for not very much extra and thought it was worth it. The views got progressively more picturesque as we left Osaka for the coastline of Wakayama (sit on the right side outbound, left side inbound for the best views). Arrived at Kii-Tanabe, the starting point for most hikers, in 2.5 hours
Checked into my guest house and walked around the main street and browsed the information centre before experiencing the golden hour at Tokei Jinja with no one else in sight. A stark contrast to Osaka!
Stumbled upon a cosy tempura restaurant 天ちら咲場 in the Ajikoji entertainment district of town. Sitting at the bar and ordering tempura a la carte was a very fun experience. Everything was fresh and delicious and I stuffed myself silly thanks to the lovely couple running the place.
Day 4 - Kumano Kodo Hike - Tanabe to Chikatsuyu
Started bright and early with a wonderful Japanese breakfast of fish, rice and assorted side dishes and handed my lunch bento as we finished eating (the same pattern would repeat itself for the next 5 days). Took the next available bus to Takajiri Oji, the official start of the Nakahechi route with many fellow hikers. I noted that the Takajiri Oji information centre stocked a small selection of key hiking gear such as hats, poles, and rain jackets for the unprepared or perhaps the spontaneous? Got myself a japanese stamp booklet (100 yen) to complement the dual pilgrimage stamp booklet (free from Tanabe’s information centre but not available here).
Offered a brief prayer at the shrine, collected my first stamp and started climbing. I’ve not been on a hike that had such a demotivating start. It’s a straight up 45 minute winding climb up stone steps surrounded by dense growth without much to see. Gradually, the climbing eased up and I began to understand why this was worthy of world heritage status. I started to see (ahem) the forest for the trees. I could smell it too. And hear it! It was a multi-sensory wonder that I thoroughly enjoyed till the end in Nachsan 5 days later.
Had lunch at the viewpoint and community rest stop in the idyllic village of Takahara. This was one of the few spots where day trippers in vehicles and hikers crossed paths on the Kumano Kodo. There was even a lady selling gourmet coffee out of her van that day.
After lunch, I descended through a lovely stretch of the trail dotted with old tea house ruins, lush fern covered valleys and streams and bamboo groves. I arrived in Chikatsuyu 18km and 7 hours later. Checked in to Guesthouse Housen and was stunned by the luxurious hotpot dinner laid out for me by my hosts.
Watched local news with them over dinner and was duly informed that Ewiniar, the first typhoon of the year, would be skirting Japan over the next few days and bring heavy rains and some winds to Wakayama.
I decided to cut out the first 14km of the planned hike and instead start from Hosshinmon Oji and add on the short Dainichi-goe to get to my accommodation for the night. It was disappointing news as it threw my pilgrimage stamp collection plans into disarray.
**Day 5 - ...
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