Problem solved by DVDShrink. Thanks, everyone.
this post was submitted on 14 Nov 2023
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That’s a name I haven’t heard in a very long time.
DVDs were introduced in the western market in 1997 so it can't be produced in 1993.
If it's an audio cd or a cd-rom, maybe it was damaged from the beginning. I have many original disks from the early 90s that have "disc rot", the data layer decomposed and are now unreadable. Watch it with a light behind it, if you see many small dots, it has disc rot and it's now gone
If then it's actually a DVD from 1993, then it' a prototype that can't be read by modern drives because it predated the standard
On closer examination, the performance is from 1993. Discogs shows a 2005 release, and Presto Music seems to be selling a version that says it was released 29th Jul 2013. The back cover of the container I have says copyright 1993. I played it before trying to copy it. VLC is the only app I have that recognized it. Pot Player and Windows Media did not.
You need to try an actual DVD player software like PowerDVD, or standalone home theater DVD player before you write the disc off as bad. Attempting to copy a DVD to your PC literally cannot damage the disc. The disc wasn't written by a laser, it was pressed by a mold, much like a vinyl record is made. Your reader can't possibly alter it.
I'm sure you're more technically knowledgeable than I am b/c most people here are. But I tell you for sure though that my copying the contents of a DVD to PC using File Explorer resulted in an unplayable DVD twice. It's fixable. I'm bookmarking this in case I forget what a mess this causes and do it again. I'd be interested to know the result if you try it to prove me wrong.
Windows? Yeah, I'm talking out of my ass here, but probably only unplayable because Windows helpfully created some kinda corrupted data file related to the disc.
What he said is factual; you didn't make the disc itself unreadable. Which is why I blame Windows doing something stupid and not helpful.
I don't have any background knowledge to confirm this, but this seems like the extremely likely answer. Unfortunately.
You're half right for the wrong reasons. Disc rot just doesn't happen to stamped original discs, only writable discs rot. Old cheap discs might degrade for other reasons of course (like scratches or labels delaminating and tearing away at a substandard construction), but the data layer of original stamped discs doesn't decompose because it's mechanically stamped into the data layer. Original discs would have been stamped foil pressed between two layers of plastic. Cheap discs sometimes just skipped the top layer of plastic so that the data layer was just under the painted label. Writable discs especially using this cost saving technique. Thus any damage to the top label would damage the data layer. Writable discs rot because the bits are burned into a different kind of data layer film that can fade or otherwise decompose, but I doubt you'd be able to actually see dots from rot. Using the wrong kind of pen or using sticker labels could easily damage the data layer. If you hold a disc up to a light source and see dots of light through it, the foil layer has been scratched and it will be unplayable, but this is physical damage not rot.
I have many original professional made audio CDs from the early 90s that if you listen them, there are a lot of skips. I watch them against a light and I can see many dots. Bought them in 1991, started to have this problem a decade ago. They're with a gold dye
For audio CDs I never saw two layers of plastic, only saw that on DVDs. But I stopped buying audio CDs in the late 90s
What do you mean by professional made? The color of any dyes doesn't really enter into it.
Mass produced CDs were physically stamped foil laminated with plastics. Writable discs regardless of quality, professional or otherwise, worked on a completely different principle which would fade (or rot) over time. Pretty much every other problem is physical and not rot.
Professional made = original and paid very expensive, 15 euro in 1991 which was insane
I don't know the terminology but if I listen to it, it skips and if I shine a light through it , I see many small holes
Yeah, nah, that didn't happen.
Maybe you can try DVDFab DVD Copy, which may recognize your corrupted DVDs and make a backup copy of it. This tool is good at decrypting and coping old DVD.
FWIW, the same thing happened a couple of years ago with a more contemporary DVD. At the time, I didn't know I couldn't just copy it. After using Windows copy function on it, I couldn't play it. I found a program called BurnAware that fixed and ripped it. BurnAware isn't able to recover this disc.
Unless the drive physically scratched the DVD, it's not corrupted. However, I've had a few discs that I've stored carefully for decades that just stopped working for no reason. The discs looked flawless with no signs of damage and they refused to work.
What region is the DVD and is your drive set to the same region?
Alternatively, download this DLL file and place it the same directory as your VLC installation. It will then be able to bypass simple region checks but not all.
Everything is set to region 0. Tried the DLL file and got this, "Your input can't be opened: VLC is unable to open the MRL 'file:///D:/VIDEO_TS/VTS_01_1.VOB'. Check the log for details." Checked VLC using other files, and it's fine.
Have you tried using MakeMKV to dump the video directly into an mkv file?
Just tried it and got "Error 'Scsi error - ILLEGAL REQUEST:ILLEGAL MODE FOR THIS TRACK'..."
That can be solved by opening the disc using VLC when makemkv is scanning. VLC will free up the lock.
I’ve been wrestling with something similar for a week lol.
There’s a thread about the error on the makemkv forums. And I’ve personally salvaged discs this way only yesterday.
Also, makemkv can open a DVD as a raw data file. Mine were old TV shows so I was able to pull the individual episodes avoiding the errors or at least getting some if one was corrupt. I saved an additional 3 discs this way.
One last method if you can set the speed of the drive to 1x; rip slow and set lots of retries (5) to maybe give it a slightly better chance. 1x was always the most reliable. Any speed over and you have mixed results.
Lastly, there’s a list on the net about best drives. If you really care and want to throw $100 at it, pick one up. The drives for $20 you find on Amazon won’t read anything a few years old. Theirs lasers are garbage compared to ones manufactured 10+ years ago.