3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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Too familiar with that plot, at least you diagnosed it quick and it was apparent, sometimes they show up super intermittent and are a pain to chase.
I think I recall you having a break a while back ago on !vorondesign@lemmy.world, same spot?
That was me, but in that case it was the heater wire and the break was in the y-chain. This break is in the x-chain. Based on a reply on the Voron design forum, I may not have left enough slack in my wire runs. The breaks always happen on the inside radius, right where a wire touches one of the links in the chain, so this seems like a decent theory.
I think I'm going to completely rewire the hot end. On the fence about going to USB or CAN vs discreet wiring. Since I tend to print big things, I don't think an umbilical is a great idea - it seems like it would not work that well in high z situations. My reverse bowden already snags things sometimes.