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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/the_judge_168 on 2024-02-15 18:18:01.
Got a ton of great info from previous trip reports so hope this is helpful to those reading. Happy to answer any questions in the comments. Trip was last month in January. Travel schedule: Tokyo-->Kyoto /Osaka-->Tokyo-->Hokkaido-->Tokyo-->Hakone-->Tokyo-->Home
Background:
Late 20s / Early 30s M/F. I’ve been to Japan a few times but mostly Tokyo, the first time for my partner. We stayed with friends in the Tachikawa area while in Tokyo so this added ~2 hours extra travel time per day.
General thoughts on popular topics:
Prebooking:
The things we booked before the trip: Studio Ghibli museum, Suntory Yamazaki tour, Nikka Yoichi tour, DisneySea lunch reservation. For Studio Ghibli we had many devices open and we were 115-9.8k in queue to get in. Most slots sold out within minutes if not seconds. For Yamazaki we missed the lottery period but we were able to get a first come first serve canceled tour spots. Disneysea the top restaurants were all booked out within 3 minutes. Nikka should be fine to book until a few days before. We debated restaurants but did not want the schedule / flow of travel to be interrupted to make a set reservation time so did not book any.
Cash:
We spent 95k yen in cash over 21 days. Most places took credit card and/or IC card. Would always carry a bit of cash in case but overall you should not need much, especially while inside Tokyo. Plenty of smaller restaurants would not have a card machine visible, but would take out if you asked to pay with a card. A lot of card machines would have a tap option but it would not work so you have to insert a card. Some machines do not accept the newer 500 yen coin as well, so you may need to swap it out. If you have a lot of loose change there would sometimes be payment machines in front of registers that let you dump a bunch of coins.
We withdrew from ATMS in convenience stores as those would accept foreign debit cards. We had no fee card but it seemed to be 110 yen or 220 yen each time we withdrew. Not all stores had international ATMs, especially once you got outside of Tokyo.
Suica / train / bus:
We both had iPhones and loaded Suica cards before the trip. Super convenient and easy to refill on your phone. You do not have to unlock the phone to use, though a few times it would not scan and you would then have to unlock. Seemed to happen when Face ID wanted the passcode to unlock. We used Suica exclusively for all trains and buses and only bought physical tickets for Shinkansen, Haneda and Sapporo airport buses. Both Haneda and Sapporo airport buses took Suica, but we wanted to be safe in case. For some buses you have to tap on and off at the front, others are flat fee. You can see if it charges you a flat fee or says trip in progress. Also for JR stations if you enter and leave it charges you a 150 yen fee. We didn't want to walk in the cold one day and found that out.
As for Google maps and trains, the info for which car was fastest transfer was pretty nice. I found timing and pricing to also be pretty accurate inside Tokyo. In Hokkaido some of the prices did not match (usually was cheaper than what Google said). Also with snow cancellations and delays, Google did not have all the info so using the JR site was more useful. We were probably unlucky but we had multiple delays on trains / buses and cancellations due to weather and random events.
Another tip I would mention (probably more relevant to traveling from Tachikawa to Tokyo) is that Google did not seem to give the option to switch from a local train to the express train that skipped more stops unless there was more than a few minutes to transfer. In a lot of cases you can save 5-15 minutes boarding an express train. If a train stops and a lot of people walk to the other side of the same platform and wait and doors don’t close, there will usually be an express train soon.
eSIMS:
We used Verizon TravelPass, Ubigi, Airalo and T-Mobile 2g. Verizon TravelPass was the fastest and most consistent, but we only used the days we had banked for free. Ubigi was the next best, although I found it would randomly drop / lag in more crowded areas. Airalo was definitely slower than Ubigi but maybe a bit more consistent? I used 2g a few times when my Ubigi dropped and it was fine for a few quick map checks and iMessages. Of my 10gb allotment for Ubigi, 4.7GB was used for Google Maps (seemed quite high considering I downloaded offline maps), 2.3 for Safari, 1.6GB for System Services, 122MB for Google Translate. I ran a bit low so ended up buying 1GB more to be safe.Would probably buy Ubigi again in future even at double the cost of Airalo. On a side note, once we stopped using Verizon TravelPass we did have to do the sim lock trick to use Verizon number for iMessage.
Convenience stores and trash:
Most convenience stores have a small bar table line to eat and if not we ate outside in front if other Japanese people were doing so. All the convenience stores have trash cans as do many of the department stores. I never felt I had any issues carrying trash / bottles.The hot section was pretty nice for mornings and if you do not mind carrying around a larger bottle of water, it is much cheaper than a small bottle. We also went to grocery stores over convenience if that was an option for pricing and selection.
Japanese usage:
I know the basic phrases and can read some Kanji. I found if I started a conversation in Japanese they would then respond in Japanese and I would not be able to communicate so after the first day or two I just started in English with google translate. It saved a lot of time and got points across much faster. That said, compared to previous trips for me there were many more random people who could speak English and a few who were fluent. Reading Kanji was helpful both in train stations (not having to wait for signs to switch to English) and for general signs.
General food and restaurant thoughts:
I listed some restaurants that we enjoyed, really bad ones and slightly different places. Almost every meal was pretty good in general. We tried to eat at restaurants that were at least 50% Japanese inside / in line. I found that the 3.5-4.2 rating was the optimal range like others mentioned, and anything above 4.2 would be more tourists. For a lot of the recommended restaurants on social media the customers were 80-100% tourists.This was especially true in Kyoto and Osaka, as all the places we had down were all tourists. We did not have any specific foods we needed to try so we would just go with what we were craving at the time. Many restaurants you check in on a tablet to join the queue and it gives you a slip. Some slips have a QR code to scan to see where you are in line. You can usually browse shops around the restaurant and go back closer to your time.
Another tip would be a lot of restaurants (especially ramen) offer a mini / half bowl. This worked well for my partner as the normal bowls would normally be too much food on days we had second breakfast / elevenses and afternoon tea. A lot of restaurants (Tonkatsu / Tempura) also have an option for unlimited rice / miso soup so if you are fat like me make sure to get your second bowl.
Lastly, fruit is ridiculously priced compared to the US. We wanted to have fruit throughout the trip but held off most of the time due to cost. My partner did bring oatmeal to have for breakfast some days, and you can get hot water at convenience stores.
Luggage and laundry:
We had two backpacks (Allpa 35 and North Face Recon) that we used during the side trips. We did take an empty 22l suitcase to Hokkaido for food souvenirs but for the rest of the side trips it was backpacks only. It made trips much smoother not having to worry about luggage space and transport. We packed pretty light and the only item we didn’t use were flip flops since the hotels all provided slippers.
All the hotels we stayed at offered either free or coin laundry. Should note my partner got a few rashes from the detergent which I believe is a common issue.
Hotels / bed bugs:
We read a few reports about bed bugs right before we left so checked each hotel but all were pretty clean. All hotels had amenities on the first floor or on request. This was nice as you were able to just get the things you needed. Some of the hotels we stayed at used a machine to check in so check in times were a bit stricter as machines would not work before check in time.
Flights:
ANA Premium Economy SFO to HND.
ANA Economy HND to TSA, TSA to HND
AirDo Economy HND to CTS to HND
United Economy NRT to SFO
ANA SFO to HND: The ticket gives you basic United lounge access, which is a nice perk for premium economy. Service was good and flight attendants were really nice. First meal was box with tuna croissant sandwich, grandma’s cookies and banana. Second meal was an option of tempura or hamburg steak. They provided snacks (kit kats, arare snack mix and hard candy) as well as beer, wine, plum wine and champagne. Seats were ok and was about 75% full. Business was about 50% full.
AirDo: Bag drop was with ANA, seems most of things handled with ANA. Good service and only drinks for flight. Full flights both ways.
ANA HND to TSA to HND: Chance to get a Pokemon plane where you get a pokemon gift. Good service and happy with flight. One meal included. Full flight both ways.
United NRT to SFO: Long...
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